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The Odyssey Wall is an exciting, recently developed area featuring 2-3 pitch trad climbs reminiscent of the style at Mt Arapiles. The climbs feature wicked exposure and are arguably the best trad in the North Island. Trad anchors are required as the only bolts are the rap anchors at the top. Unlike the Arapiles, Cam's are favoured over wires.
To the main wall: Walk to the top of The Lower Bluff i.e., go left and up past Recycling Nachos. After the steep track leading up to the top, turn left and religiously follow the track marked with red tape for 5–10mins. The track winds around a bit and leads downhill to a view of Mount Ruapehu. On the edge of the cliff is a big pine – don't go down to the pine! Keep on the track for roughly another 15m and then head down to fixed lines leading to a chain belay. You are now at the top of The Odyssey. Take a deep breath and make a ~60m rap to the base of the wall. As it's abseil in and climb out folks! If you are worried, leave a rope on the anchor and bring some ascenders or prussic. But it’s more stylish to be confident on trad grade 18 and climb out. To the left-hand end: Via Flippin’ the Grader above and right of Boat Ramp Crack. No climbs have been cleaned or bolted on this part of the wall yet. It’s only worth going if you want to put up new routes. Please note that a few projects exist here.
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Featured Route For Odyssey Wall
The Odyssey 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c New Zealand : North Island : ... : Odyssey Wall
Super classic, one of the best Trad climbs in the North Island.Pitch 1 (17/5.9) 30mClimb up easier ground to the obvious cave. Trad Belay in cavePitch 2 (18/5.10a) 30mEmbrace the exposure as you climb out of the bottomless chimney to the end of the cave roof. From here traverse along a system of ledges until you reach a break/weakness in the roof. Construct a trad anchor here.Pitch 3 (22/5.11a) 20mClimb through the break in the roof (crux) until you get past the overhang. Easier ground to top. T...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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