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|2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>|
[This] sunny route lies on the lower portion of the West [Ridge] below the High Anxiety area, and just above the [Amphitheatre]. The start is just right of "Crow's Landing." Hike up past the [Amphitheatre], past "Super Scooper" & "Up the Downclimb." After another 50 yards or so you will see a [huge] boulder leaning against the base of the wall. Set the gear on a flat spot [against] the wall just below (west of) this boulder and gear up.
The route is by all rights two pitches, and perhaps three if you want to place a lot of gear and avoid rope drag. We did it as a single pitch with no big problem, however. We used a 70M rope, but I believe a 60M may have worked.
Climb the wall up a clean slab from the ground or junky corner, some 5-10 feet to the right of this boulder for 30 feet and then continue up and right on easy moves for about 60 more feet to a belay (optional) on a long ledge system. Continue up and right to a ledge below a very long overhang with bad rock. Scramble right on this ledge to a bulge in the wall where the ledge pinches into the overhang at a rounded bulge with good holds. Climb up through the bulge watching out for bad rock. Continue on the slab above some distance left of the junky right-facing corner, perhaps 6 to ten feet left of it, where a small tree grow out of the face.
You will reach the broken red overhang (optional belay) and then climb up through this on one of the many possible options from there. The [Rossiter guidebook] suggests a "groove" what we did not find was a "groove". Instead we climbed a left-leaning, overhanging crank-and-jug line through the top overhang, being mindful not to grab loose rock. The belay on top was from a solid and reasonably sized pine tree. (6" [diameter] trunk in stone.) Refer to [Rossiter's guidebook] if you have it. This tree is shown on [Rosister's] p228 topo as being just to the the right of the tree atop of "Auntie [Perspirant]."
To Descend: There are several ways. One option is to scramble South on the ridge about 50 feet to a big boulder, then downclimb from the boulder to a very large pine tree, the first in a set of two raps (one single rope rap with a 70M rope or two raps with a single shorter rope). This involves 5.6 solo downclimbing and a fall would be deadly. You can down-lead/down follow a pitch if this sounds bad. Option #2, a rap could be built on the belay tree. Option #3, rap from anchors at the top of the Ampatheatre area. Option #4, you can go up the ridge to the High Anxiety/ Vershneidung area and find one of several other descent anchor systems.
One set of stoppers, One set of cams. Small tricams to fill in a few spots here and there.