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Octopus Garden

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Call Any Vegetable T 
Edible Panties T 
Electric Ball T 
Harry's Crack T 
Monkey Coefficient T 
Octopus Garden in the Shade T,TR 
Pipe Dream T,TR 
Root Canal T 
Unearthly Delights T 

Octopus Garden  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 49.7081, -123.1346 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,623
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kBobby on May 18, 2007
Forecast:
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A wonderful moderate climbing area, mostly 5.8 and 5.9. If you're coming up here to lead these (and they are nice), you might consider bringing a set of hexes and/or some larger cams (up to about #4 Camalot). Many of the climbs can be led on a standard rack, but two or three are w i d e.

Because of the ease of top-roping (most climbs have rappel anchors), this place can be crowded on weekends. Also a bit "buggy."

Getting There 

Follow the trail past Neat and Cool, and turn off at the next main junction (signs). Follow up and up, past stairs and several switchbacks, until the Loop Trail crests, and then descends more stairs. Then you are almost there. The trail will lead directly to the wall, and you cannot possibly miss it when you are there. ~20 minutes.

If you need to get up to (or down from) the top of the cliff, there is a trail that ascends a root-filled gully on the left side past Harry's Crack, 5.8.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Octopus Garden:
Edible Panties   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Call Any Vegetable   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Octopus Garden in the Shade   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Unearthly Delights   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 75'   
Electric Ball   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Octopus Garden

Featured Route For Octopus Garden
Electric Ball is the twin cracks on the right

Electric Ball 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Octopus Garden
A beautiful route with several cruxes and good gear. Be bold on this one, though, as one of the lower cruxes has groundfall potential and the upper one has big air potential. This route is easily top roped by climbing any of the routes to the left and moving the rope to the anchors on top of this route....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Octopus Garden Slideshow Add Photo
the line on the left is "Edible Panties 5.7&q...
BETA PHOTO: the line on the left is "Edible Panties 5.7&q...

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By Eric Fjellanger
Jun 4, 2013
The routes here are sorted backward, can an admin fix it?