Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Pigeon Stool Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
October Sky T 
Roaring Lion T 

October Sky 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: jdberndt on Oct 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened MORE INFO >>>


P1: Stroll past some lichen on questionable rock to a rightward traverse above a slab that wants to spit you. Equalize a fixed pin and 1/4" bolt then step across the gaping maw to a two bolt anchor. Don't forget to protect your follower.
P2: Clip fixed pin and traverse left into bushy crack. Follow arete to madrone tree for belay.


Traverse base of wall past obvious white-ish overhang with hard routes. Ascend choss left of slight bulge with fixed pin.

Rap route or ascend grassy ledges (4/5th class) to walk off.


Gear to 2". Doubles in finger size pieces.

Comments on October Sky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Curtveld
Feb 14, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A good adventurous climb, but not for the 5.6 leader. First part has funky rock and pro, upper part of climb is great climbing but runout.
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Finding the route: Coming from the right end of Pigeon Stool Wall, it's the very first spot where you could climb around the overhang of that white roof. The beginning is nicely shaded by a small collection of madrone and evergreen trees.

1st pitch: It's pretty short, and were most of the fun is. After you get up higher than that white roof on your right (i.e. when you're about level with the top of the Madrone behind you) go right up that steep ramp. Equalize the fixed-pin and the antique bolt, and then you get to do the step-across, which is much easier than it looks. Protect your follower after the step across, and then belay off the awesome pair of bolts on this big ledge.

2nd pitch: It's pretty long, but it's a lot simpler. Climb up on either side of the big vegetation-filled crack, and just keep going up. Eventually you start getting some modern bolts to clip, but they're pretty spaced out so consider placing gear at times too. The climbing gets easier, sometimes just 3rd class, but still fun. At the top it's almost too far to yell to your belayer.

Descent: The 190' reported total height seems right. We rapped from a nice pair of bolts at the very tip-top with two 60m ropes tied together, and we landed right on top of our packs at the base with some rope to spare. With just a single rope, I doubt you'd make it back to the 1st pitch belay ledge, so you'd be looking at the sketchy proposition of rapping off a single bolt. Alternatively, the rock above the top of the route gets pretty level & forested, so there probably is a walk-off somewhere.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!