|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 190'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||jdberndt on Oct 20, 2011|
|Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on October Sky||Add Comment|
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Feb 14, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|A good adventurous climb, but not for the 5.6 leader. First part has funky rock and pro, upper part of climb is great climbing but runout.|
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finding the route: Coming from the right end of Pigeon Stool Wall, it's the very first spot where you could climb around the overhang of that white roof. The beginning is nicely shaded by a small collection of madrone and evergreen trees.
1st pitch: It's pretty short, and were most of the fun is. After you get up higher than that white roof on your right (i.e. when you're about level with the top of the Madrone behind you) go right up that steep ramp. Equalize the fixed-pin and the antique bolt, and then you get to do the step-across, which is much easier than it looks. Protect your follower after the step across, and then belay off the awesome pair of bolts on this big ledge.
2nd pitch: It's pretty long, but it's a lot simpler. Climb up on either side of the big vegetation-filled crack, and just keep going up. Eventually you start getting some modern bolts to clip, but they're pretty spaced out so consider placing gear at times too. The climbing gets easier, sometimes just 3rd class, but still fun. At the top it's almost too far to yell to your belayer.
Descent: The 190' reported total height seems right. We rapped from a nice pair of bolts at the very tip-top with two 60m ropes tied together, and we landed right on top of our packs at the base with some rope to spare. With just a single rope, I doubt you'd make it back to the 1st pitch belay ledge, so you'd be looking at the sketchy proposition of rapping off a single bolt. Alternatively, the rock above the top of the route gets pretty level & forested, so there probably is a walk-off somewhere.