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Unsorted Routes:

October Light 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 2,175
Submitted By: Andy Johnson on Jul 10, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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High on October Light.


October Light is an excellent testpiece that seems to receive very few ascents. I would highly recommend this route for someone looking for a good challenge. The route is located just to the left of Hurley-Fowler and B-G Crack and is very obvious. It is the intimidating hands through offwidth crack that splits the buttress. Get psyched up and go for it. The pitch starts off as good flared hands through a steep bulge and continues to get wider. Save a #4 Camalot for the top. Don't expect to find a line on this Scarpelli masterpiece.


You can place everything from a yellow Alien to #6 Friends. Go heavy from #3 to #5 Camalots. Bigbros may be difficult to place because the offwidth section flares a bit. A #6 Friend is good to have. Hand-size pieces are nice for the anchor.

Photos of October Light Slideshow Add Photo
In the middle of the third bulge.
In the middle of the third bulge.
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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 6, 2005

How is it that the book rates both this climb and Big Pink 11b? Sure they are both big bad offwidths, but this thing is definitely a grade easier than Big Pink. Come on guys, have some consistency.

By Handsome B. Wonderful
Mar 13, 2005

October Light is generally considered easier than Big Pink by most Vedauwoo offwidth climbers, but you might be surprised by the number off good offwidthers that consider this thing pretty damn hard. The trend at the Voo is that if it is hard and doesn't have a roof it is an .11. If it is hard and has a roof it is a .12.

By Justin Edl
Apr 10, 2006

Now has bolts up top.

By Greg Cameron
Aug 20, 2007

I wonder what most folks think the crux is on this route? I thought it was the beginning hand crack. Above that, nothing felt harder than 5.10d. Since I've been failing on some other things at the Voo, I'd have to think this is soft for Scarpelli 5.11b.

By Justin Edl
Aug 20, 2007

I believe Scarpelli originally rated this 10d or 11a. I think it was given 11a in the old Kopishka guide and was uprated in the first edition of Heel and Toe. Most people I know consider the first and third bulges to be the cruxes with the third bulge being the overall crux.

By Nate26
Sep 1, 2008

Scarpelli rated it 10c as he thought it was similar in difficulty to Twilight Zone. Amazing route.

By Greg Cameron
Mar 13, 2012

I would agree that this is a full grade easier than Big Pink (which is really 5.12- IMHO).

By James Arnold
From: Chattanooga
Jun 15, 2013

JMO a #6 Friend will get in your way. Maybe it was how I was facing and stacking, but wrestling with it (crack kinda tight then it gets in the way of moves) caused me to grip out and fall. The money piece for me was the old #5 Camalot, when I ditched the 6 and took the old 5 next go it was smooth sailing...well, not exactly smooth, but it got done....

Per Greg's comment, I thought the 3rd bulge was the crux, but janky sharp hands is a strong suit whereas body squirms aren't...awesome route.