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October and November dirtbag trad destinations
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By Andrew Mayer
Aug 27, 2012
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

This fall, once my seasonal firefighting job ends (I'm guessing late Sept/early Oct), I'm planning on hitting the road, living out of my truck and climbing as much trad as I can until winter arrives.

I'm thinking of spending most of my time at Indian Creek with some potential time at Red Rocks (already been to both but only for a couple of days each). I am looking for advice/beta on camping, the ease of finding partners this time of year (I'll be solo) and weather at these two particular destinations as well as recommendations for other areas I may have overlooked (J Tree?)

Also, would it be worth getting a guidebook for the creek if I'm going to be there for multiple weeks? And anyone know when the new version of Bloom's book is going to be available?

Lastly, I'll be starting this trip from western Montana and trying to visit friends in Denver at some point along the way.

Thanks in advance for your advice.


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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Aug 28, 2012

Creek info:

-- Camping is excellent, and free. There are several campgrounds, each has its plusses ad minuses.

--Partners are ridiculously easy to find in the Creek at this time of year, especially if you have cams to contribute to the communal rack.

--Totally worth it to buy a book, although not strictly neccesary


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By Colin Brochard
From San Francisco
Aug 28, 2012

sierras bru the valley is prime in oct bishop in november


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Aug 28, 2012
The route in it's entirety.

Creek and the Sierra eastside are your cheapest locations the house the highest amount of climbing. Crush it bro


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By Sarugo
Aug 29, 2012

North Wash. Between Lake Powell and Hanksville.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Aug 29, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

GUNKS!!!! Minus the dirtbag part...camping fucking blows


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By Josh Ewing
From Bluff, UT
Aug 29, 2012
1200 year old petroglyph near Valley of the Gods.

Sarugo wrote:
North Wash. Between Lake Powell and Hanksville.


Nice Sarugo. Partners are plentiful up there! If you catch me rope soloing, I'll give you a belay.

Seriously, mantana, Creek is good for finding partners and the weather is prime that time of year. Crowds can be a serious issue however. If you're going to be in Denver, hit the FlatIrons and Eldorado Canyon by Boulder. Both have great trad lines. I'd also highly recommend a trip up to Devil's Tower. Sounds like you'd have time, and the crack climbing is killer.


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Aug 30, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

When it turns winter head to Patagonia.

As long as you have rack and rope climbing partners (from ALL over the world) are really easy to come by. The camping is amazing an the lines are breathtaking and aesthetic.

Living is next to nothing. Can get a cheap ticket down too...

Know it's a little outside what you're thinking, just an idea. Just got back from 7 months in Patagonia. Pm me if you have any questions


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By Andrew Mayer
Sep 1, 2012
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

Thanks for all of the info. I think I'm gonna stick with my initial instict of the Creek.

Josh - I definitely plan to climb a flatiron or two and check out Eldo while I'm in Denver, just didn't include that in my original post. May also look into stopping at Devil's Tower.

Medic - Don't have the funds for a flight to Patagonia right now but I definitely plan on heading there sometime in the next couple of years. I may send you a PM when I've got more time.

Always open to additional info/suggestions too. Thanks




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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Sep 1, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Camping is limited to 14 days at the creek. I heard from the rangers that they are going to be stricter enforcing this starting this fall.
Something to keep in mind.


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By Andrew Mayer
Sep 1, 2012
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

Mia - thanks for the heads up. Do you know if that means you simply have to move to a different site/campground after 14 days? Or go spend a rest day in moab or monticello and then return for a new 14?


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Sep 1, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Well it's supposed to be 14 days total in the entire area. The ranger I talked to just said things were going to get more controlled.


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By Andrew Mayer
Sep 1, 2012
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

Interesting. Thanks for the info.


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By javi
From saint george area
Sep 10, 2012
Javi at cerebrus

I'm in a similar situation love to crush w u at the creek as early as this week


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By Matt H-
Sep 14, 2012
Happy Turk!!

Yo guys,

I'll be down there as well.

I live and work in Moab and come down to the creek on my days off. Hit me up:

(435) 260-0878

-Matt H


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Sep 16, 2012
blah

If your doing this come do a wall or two in zion np soon its getting nice here...


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By John D
Sep 16, 2012

Just to throw it out there, Yosemite, Red Rocks, and Joshua Tree are prime places in the fall. I spent a 2 months on the road working my way south and it was fantastic. The creek is nice too, but just in case.


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By Andrew Mayer
Sep 16, 2012
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

Thanks everyone for the input.

Javi - PM sent
Matt H - PM sent
Rob - don't know much about Zion but I think alot of the good stuff there is aid, in which I do not have any experience or gear. Would love to learn though.
John D - yeah I was considering hitting up Red Rocks too but hoping to find partners for this at the creek.


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Sep 17, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Zion has loads of free routes. A whole guide book dedicated to it. Very cool place.

You can't beat the buffets in Vegas after a long day at Red Rock Canyon. Plus there are do many awesome routes there.

Bishop!!! Excellent in the fall.


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Sep 18, 2012
blah

I primarily climb free routes in zion. I am would be happy to do so with any dirtbags who want to get out here. My schedule guiding is slowing down and i need people to climb with as much as possible.


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By Be Esperanza
From Asheville, NC
Sep 18, 2012
OKellys Crack, J Tree

I froze my butt off in the Creek and Red Rocks in mid November. The Stronghold in AZ has free camping. JTree is also a winner IMHO.


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By Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Sep 18, 2012
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"

Cochise Stronghold AZ.

  • FREE camping (no 2 week limit)
  • Great weather
  • Awesome climbing
  • Small crowd spread over a large area
  • Close to other climbing- Mt Lemmon, Mendoza Canyon, The Mustangs etc.


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By ShibbyShane
From Estes Park, CO
Sep 19, 2012
Dappled Mare

Also thinking about heading to the creek or Red Rocks for the first few weeks in October. Hit me up if anyone is interested in a partner!


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Sep 19, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

There are quite a few free routes in Zion. I just did Kung Fu Fighter, Mortal Combat and Blood Sport this past week....all three have at least one creek quality pitch in them....unlike the creek, zero other climbers all week. But yes, you have to harden up a bit. They are not going to be all clean, polished up and marked with a sign.


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Sep 20, 2012
blah

Kung fu fighter is one of my favorite routes in zion


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Sep 20, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

I actually enjoyed Blood Sport as much. The moves required to exit the Van Damme roof were amazing. Hard to tell how cool this route is until you are in it. I still prefer the Tunnel Wall routes, Lap Dance, Feast of Snakes, etc...but this was a good trio last week. Going to climb in Zion tomorrow with my wife Rob, you are welcome to join us at Oscars as we bug Zach for dinner, prob 5:30 or so.


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