Octagon 5.12c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Aaron Love |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Aaron Love on Jun 22, 2003 |
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The crux. Photo thanks to "Don" Johnson.
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Description This is the infamous thin crack between Maxilash and Vault. It uses the same descent as Vault (i.e. through the rock to H & H Grunt). This is a practice in the art of combining thin tips jamming with simultaneous flaring hand jams. A good route to practice for this one is New Mutant near Friday the 13th.
Protection This protects well, but use extra long runners below the roof.
By Anonymous Coward Jul 13, 2003
| Think again, I'm all but positive that Octagon was freed prior to Kelman and Harpers eroneous, misleading statement in their guide, good send none the less. |
By Aaron Love Jul 20, 2003
| I was reluctant to call it a f.a. too, simply because I knew there would be responses like A.C.'s. But after doing some research, I found that the few folks who claimed they had done it never actually stood by that claim. If you have additional info, post it(who, when and how). Thanks |
By Tom Painter Aug 13, 2003
| In 20 years of climbing at Vedauwoo, I've not heard of an ascent of Octagon til now. Indeed, I've heard of MANY and participated in one failed attempt. Congratulations Aaron!! |
By Tom Painter Aug 13, 2003
| By the way, 5.12 is vague unless you mean .12b/c, but there's a gulf between .12a and .12d- just wanting to know what extent of punishment to expect .... |
By Aaron Love Aug 16, 2003
| Thanks Tom, my best estimate is .12c. It was easier than I thought it would be with respect to its reputation. Maybe I just figured out good beta(email me if you want specifics on that-ACLove@pol.net). |
By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Jan 6, 2008
| Kopischka's '81 guide book called this (no joke!) 5.9+. I'm all but certain he was fishing for somebody to send it and correct the grade, and in so doing force somebody into the first free ascent. |
By Aaron Love Aug 17, 2012
| Ok, it's 2012.... Who has done this route and what do you think? |
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