Oceanic Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
This is another great wall with some nice climbs nearly right off the water. While there is no ocean here, you can have some nice creek-side beach with pretty granite cobbles.
A. Unknown, 9?, 1p.
B. Unknown, 11-?, 1p, bolts.
C. In Your Dreams
, 10, 1p, 90', TR or gear or now bolts.
D. The Deep
, 11 or 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
E. Sargasso Sea
, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Challenges of Leisure
, 13, 1p, bolts.
G. Wake of The Flood, 13, 1p, bolts.
, 11, 1-2p, 80', bolts.
above Dream On
, 11, 2nd p variation to G, 1p, 30', bolts.
above Mud Shark
, 11+, 2nd p variation to G, 1p, 70', bolts.
I1. Pla Pwy (Sick Fish)
, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
I2. Creature From The Black Lagoon
, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
above I2. Dream Come True
, 12-, 1p, 35', bolts.
above I2. Nightmare Come True, 12-, 1p, bolts.
above I2. Pound Town
, 9+, 1p, 55', bolts.
above I2. Chocolate Nut Factory
, 9-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
above I2. Poundcakes
, 8+ R, 1p, 60', gear.
J. Twistin' By The Pool
, 10+ S, 90', gear, bolts, & pins.
K. Sheik Yer Bouti
, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts & pins.
L. Shiny Toys
, 9, 1p, 80', gear & bolts & pin.
DD. Trans-Oceanic Traverse, 11+ S, start with H to B, bolts, pins, & gear.
On the far north end of Dream Canyon, on the east side.
Weather station 5.8 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Oceanic Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oceanic Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oceanic Wall:
Pound Town 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
The Deep 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Leviathan 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 2 pitches, 85'
Featured Route For Oceanic Wall
Sargasso Sea 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CO
: ... : Oceanic Wall
The route begins with a bang- an obvious side pull sets you up for throw to better holds. From this move, climb into a strenous seam that spits you out onto the slab. Balance and smear your way through the crux and onto to easier climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Newer unknown 5.11 on left side of Oceanic. Fun r...
Upper Oceanic headwall. Photo: Bob Horan.
Oceanic Wall, photo: Bob Horan.
BETA PHOTO: Oceanic Wall, Dream Canyon.
By Clare Shemeta
Jul 10, 2011
Anybody know what the two routes left of In Your Dreams are? Leftmost seems hardish 11, next route to right seems like 9+.
From: a Toyota Tacoma
Nov 9, 2015
I am not sure who bolted these or what they are called. I do agree, the farthest left one is about 5.9. Immediately right of that route is a newer route, I would say is 11a/b. The right one, which I did yesterday for the first time, is very fun. Watch out for a large loose rock right of the second bolt. There is also a significant run out at the top, albeit easy. The left route is a little more lackluster.
By Richard Border
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 14, 2016
How about the right slanting slab pitch two right of Sargasso Sea? Only did the first pitch, and it felt like hard 11 maybe?
From: a Toyota Tacoma
Mar 15, 2016
I haven't done that one yet, Richard. It looks like a good variation and the logical start to Mud Shark, as it follows the same weakness that forms the crux of that route. Seems like linking it would make for a fun and long traversing pitch.