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Routes in Mussel Rock
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A Fine Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chimney Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Doozy TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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God Of The Gaps TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mussel Crack A1 |
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Mussels For Bones TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ocean Overhang T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 855 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Mar 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This description is for the huge overhanging dihedral with a gaping offwidth inside.
This isn't just a climb, it is an adventure! Its history of being climbed is unknown and highly unlikely. I've been up it several times and once with a scrub brush. It is getting cleaner each time, but it still comes with a little dirt.
Once you work your way up and left past all of the ledges and boring flaky rock (5.5) you are rewarded with one of the best cracks in Humboldt County. After the last ledge, the enormous overhang looms above. From here on up, if you fall on top rope, you'll take a massive swing out into space and will not be making it back to the cliff; it is all or nothing.
The 50 foot overhang is strenuous and unrelenting offwidth using everything from fists, forearm jams, arm bars, and some welcome arm locks. You will pass several bulges, a few of them pretty sizable, and all of them providing an obstacle. Pass the larger roofs in the beginning with exciting chimney moves and good jams. After the bigger roofs, alternate between a jammed knee and stemming.
Breathtaking amount of air all around you on this route!!
This isn't just a climb, it is an adventure! Its history of being climbed is unknown and highly unlikely. I've been up it several times and once with a scrub brush. It is getting cleaner each time, but it still comes with a little dirt.
Once you work your way up and left past all of the ledges and boring flaky rock (5.5) you are rewarded with one of the best cracks in Humboldt County. After the last ledge, the enormous overhang looms above. From here on up, if you fall on top rope, you'll take a massive swing out into space and will not be making it back to the cliff; it is all or nothing.
The 50 foot overhang is strenuous and unrelenting offwidth using everything from fists, forearm jams, arm bars, and some welcome arm locks. You will pass several bulges, a few of them pretty sizable, and all of them providing an obstacle. Pass the larger roofs in the beginning with exciting chimney moves and good jams. After the bigger roofs, alternate between a jammed knee and stemming.
Breathtaking amount of air all around you on this route!!
Location
To access the top, find the trail that turns west off of the Rim Trail, at the first fork, turn right. Follow this overgrown trail up a hill, past some caves, and back downhill. Turn right and walk below a 20' rock and land on a grassy ledge on the just below the headwall on the southern side. Climb across a 3rd class crossing below the headwall. On your right (east) you will notice a fist crack and offwidth, these are directly above the route. Set an anchor in these or equalize the two larger trees with a separate climbing rope or your rope won't land in the correct spot. If leading, you will want to set up your anchor first so you dont have to climb over the dirt mound at the top.
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