|Echo Cove - South Side
Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge)
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Tom Beck & Robert Stavely-Parker, 1982|
|Page Views: ||1,314|
|Submitted By: ||Gretchen on May 20, 2003|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
I love this route and am amazed that more people d...
Start on a pumpy flake moving on to a nice resting ledge. The top half of the climb is a scary move over the crux to the single bolt followed by a thin finger crack to the finish.
gear to 3", bolt
|Photos of Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge) Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: Ocean of Night (5.10c) actually finishes left of t...
Here is a better shot of the bottom section of thi...
BETA PHOTO: "Ocean Of Night".
Photo by Blitzo.
|Comments on Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge)
|By Crack Addict|
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 8, 2004
I backed off this route after placing my second cam in the flake. As I tugged on it loose grains were raining down from inside the flake. I didn't trust the placement so I backed off and set up a TR. Fun climb on TR.
|By Pat W|
Oct 5, 2007
I've only done this one on TR, and the anchor can be a bit zooish. From the top, I set some bigger cams way back in the middle of the formation, something like BD 2-4 equalized with a couple cordalettes. You could probably set an anchor on the edge of the lip using two or more pieces in the #1 camalot size, but a directional would be nessecary to prevent a TR'd climber from swinging into blocks on the climber's left. Overall, a good and varied route, sustained despite the ledge in the middle. 5.10a/b jam or lieback down low and 5.10bish face climbing above. On lead, don't blow the upper face moves near the bolt as you'd probably deck on the ledge. I'd enjoy leading it next time around.
|By Kris Spevak|
Nov 19, 2007
This is a really fun route, we put an anchor at the top just under the lip... no directional needed as you don't swing very hard toward the rocks on the left.
|By Charles I.|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
My buddy ripped a # 4 out of the previously mentioned grainy rock while hanging after he botched the sequence at the bottom - yikes! If your leading I found it better to climb into the stance above the lieback (grainy)portion where you have many gear options available. Interesting climbing past the bolt puts you on top. The bolt above the ledge is pretty darn high I found. I had to climb up a ways to get it clipped - kinda spooky when your last piece is way below the ledge some 20'down. Once past the bolt climbing eases at very the top. Very exciting lead. Love great climbs like these that get NO stars in the book!
May 10, 2009
Ripped a piece while dogging, freaked out by a high bolt and still down grading. Classic.
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Climbed this route for the first time last weekend (thanks for the recommendation Kris/Randy). It is quite good; maybe 3 of 5 stars. Pro seemed good in the flake (but a little strenuous to place). The thin diagonal seam above the bolt is harder than you expect -- you wouldn't want to blow the lieback moves.