Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs Rock Climbing
This very visible crag, also known as the Upper Megunticook Cliffs, has seen less activity than other Camden areas, probably because of its one-mile, uphill approach. It is my favorite area in camden, and is full of steep cracks, from fists to fingers. Peregrines are often present year-round in the area above the largest talus slope. According to the Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife, they are not currently nesting, but should the situation change, please respect any posted closures.
Hike in via the Tablelands Trail, which starts from the Mt. Battie Auto Road (park entrance fee required). The trail will take you to a point below the right end of the cliff; find the intersection of the Jack Williams Trail, follow it left a few hundred yards, and then head up to the crag.
You can also reach the Tablelands Trail by continuing uphill on the Carriage Road Trail past the Cataracts, the Ramparts, and the Hot Spot; the trail junction is one mile from the road. Alternatively, go straight up the Megunticook Trail from the Camden Hills State Park entrance on Route 1, emerging at Ocean Lookout at the top of the cliff.
Climbing Season For the Camden Hills area.
Weather station 4.6 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs
Running Free 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c ME
: Camden Hills
: Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Just left of Play Misty is this wildly positioned and well protected route. Take a light rack (up to a #2 Camalot or equivalent) and many quickdraws. The first pitch (crux) climbs an obvious crack, thin at first, past two bolts and three fixed pins to a 2-bolt belay. The second pitch follows a finger crack right to a slab, then climbs straight up past three bolts to a small ledge (optional belay; same as Play Misty). From here, work right past four bolts up a steep headwall to fl...[more] Browse More Classics in ME
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