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This very visible crag, also known as the Upper Megunticook Cliffs, has seen less activity than other Camden areas, probably because of its one-mile, uphill approach. It is my favorite area in camden, and is full of steep cracks, from fists to fingers. Peregrines are often present year-round in the area above the largest talus slope. According to the Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife, they are not currently nesting, but should the situation change, please respect any posted closures.
Hike in via the Tablelands Trail, which starts from the Mt. Battie Auto Road (park entrance fee required). The trail will take you to a point below the right end of the cliff; find the intersection of the Jack Williams Trail, follow it left a few hundred yards, and then head up to the crag.
8 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs:
Glass factory 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Exasperator 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Groovey Grubworm 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Millenium Falcon 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Twisted Schister 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Kudzus Corner 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Running Free 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Central Crack 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs
Running Free 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c ME : Camden Hills : Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Just left of Play Misty is this wildly positioned and well protected route. Take a light rack (up to a #2 Camalot or equivalent) and many quickdraws. The first pitch (crux) climbs an obvious crack, thin at first, past two bolts and three fixed pins to a 2-bolt belay. The second pitch follows a finger crack right to a slab, then climbs straight up past three bolts to a small ledge (optional belay; same as Play Misty). From here, work right past four bolts up a steep headwall to fl...[more] Browse More Classics in ME