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This is the line with the three fixed pins and two fixed wires just right of Greenfield
, arcing up and right along the steepest part of the wall. Despite the "funk" factor with the old fixed pro, this is a great little climb with steep moves and nice rock.
Pre-clip the first fixed wire if you can (we did a cupped-hand boost-up stand to get the draw on), then crank strenuous lockoff moves as you pull onto the wall. Head right to a good flake/jug and a pin, bust more tough moves past a fixed stopper, then step right below the second overhang. Two more fixed pins in the seam get you up the curved, perplexing finishing corner.
I was able to back up the next-to-last fixed pin with an RP above it, and the final pin with a bomber Metolius yellow (No. 2) in the horizontal just below it.
The fixed nuts seem OK on this climb, but the last two pins stick out a bit far - though you can back them up! Once the corner ends slab up and right a little to the double-bolt anchors.
This is just right of Greenfield
on the steepest belly of the Overlook.
Three fixed pins, two fixed wires, RPs, small TCU(s).
May 30, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
A little scary at the start. I climbed up and hung off the first fixed nut to back it up, then lowered and fired from the start with the fixed nut and back-up nut already clipped. No decking potential that way. Cool route overall- steep and funky with a back-up available next to almost every fixed piece.