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Obscura Direct 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bryan Becker
Page Views: 1,000
Submitted By: pete cogan on Jun 29, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is a fun route as long as you don't fall well into the second pitch.

P1: Easily protected and easy crack. When it dies out, head R. You can protect this traverse with the smallest Alien. Then, set an anchor below the R-facing dihedral. About 80 feet.

P2: 40 feet of fun climbing in the dihedral, then about 70 feet of very easy climbing -- with absolutely NO PRO -- to the roof. You can put pro beneath the roof (cams #1 and up), but once you're over it you've got another 30 feet of no pro, with one 5.7 move above the roof.

Bottom line: a fun route with the potential of a 140' fall.


Location 

Follow the crack that is between the 2 bolts of Zendance on your left and the R-slanting crack of Arch Rock Route on your right. The route goes up the crack, goes hard R for 20 feet, then up the R-facing dihedral. Then, it's about 70 feet of NO PRO to the roof.

Descend to R, following trail.


Protection 

Standard rack, with larger cams to protect roof.



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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2008

Second pitch flake crack is pretty cool moves. great gear.

The no-pro run-out is indeed a long ways, but well-featured, and low-angled. Just keep following the good holds trending up and left.

#2 Camalot in the overlap with a runner. The weakness in the overlap that I pulled was quite a bit harder than 5.7, but I protected it by barely reaching and place a #0.5 Camalot mid-move, I am 6'2", +4 apeindex, so I wouldnt really recommend this way. A fall here would still stretch you to hitting the slab.

A novelty route.

By Tom Johnson
From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Sep 14, 2008

Agree with Darren that the run-out is pretty straightforward. If you've done other South Platte run out slab you'll know what to expect. The move over the roof is pretty stiff for 5.7, but it's not terrible. Just power up and over on a jug and get a mantle to get your feet on up. Decent route.

By Nick Orticelle
From: Denver, Co
Aug 11, 2009

This was a fun route that tests your nerves if you don't typically run things out. We were going to do Arch Rock Route, but my partner said this is an interesting one with a run out at the top of P1 and an interesting roof move above.

Yeah...I didn't even think to ask further about the run out. Afterwards I was like "wtf was that, man?" He just said "when I say it's run out, I mean it." I'm definitely learning this guy likes to put me on the really run out climbs. It is definitely very easy climbing during the run out though (I'd say 5.5). The R rating works well.

Either way...it's got a great belay ledge and fairly wide horizontal seam under the roof to set up anchor. I used all my beautiful large cams for the anchor (#3.5, 4, and 4.5 Camalots), and it put a smile on my face. The roof is more of an out cropped hueco (at least the part we did)...It does not require sporty roof moves, but is interesting trying to figure it out without getting a nice little deck onto the slab.

By Lauren D. Hollingsworth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 24, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b X

I agree with the above comments. This is not a good lead for anyone who might fall on 5.7.

The runout to the arch can be protected by climbing parallel to Arch Rock Regular Route just to the right, then placing a hand-sized cam on the rightmost end of the arch (30-35' runout to this). Then the leader may traverse hard left to the point where the overlap pinches down into high-stepping range (another 30' runout with pendulum fall).

The Falcon Guide "Rock Climbing Colorado" certainly did not provide the necessary information for a 5.7 leader to decide if he or she should do this route, as the long runout section is described merely as "unprotected slab."