Obnoxious Partner Crack 5.8+
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Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | TylerGates on Aug 12, 2010 |
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The beginning of the 2-3 crux moves, tape for fist...
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Description Apparently a classic for the area. Follows the obvious overhanging fist crack to a pod. Then an airy step and up to the top.
Location The next face to the left of Phone Booth. When you're looking at the face, it's the super obvious fist crack through a bulge about 15 feet off the ground.(photo coming soon)
Protection I haven't lead it yet, but TR'ed and surveyed. Looked like it could be done with a lot of fist sized pieces and maybe a #5 and a #6 camalot.
Anchors consist of two pretty healthy trees at the top of the climb, and two rap bolts about 10 feet from the top. Bring long webbing or static cord as usual around these parts.
BETA PHOTO: Compilation photo of Obnoxious Partner (purple), D...
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BETA PHOTO: Dan halfway through the fist crack.
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| Comments on Obnoxious Partner Crack |
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By Dan Herscovitch
Sep 21, 2010
| The guide book says 5.8+ but I've had more trouble on 10a climbs. |
By BrianRH
Aug 19, 2011
| agree this is a sandbag at 5.8. I have led it though, but these days, I'm less inclined to place gear on Stover's slick, friable rock. I generally take the view that Stover is a sport climbing and TR crag and limit gear to setting TRs where there are no chains. |
By Realseth
Feb 8, 2012
| yeah man total sandbag at 5.8.. must be at least super hard 5.8++++++++++++++++++ |
By TylerGates
From: Olympia, WA
May 23, 2012
| Since climbing this route, I've gotten on a few more 5.8+ fist cracks in old school rated areas and they all seem inline. Its very frustrating! Apparently those guys used to know their way around a fist crack better than us. On a side note, I'm psyched to see people using this page and climbing out at High Rocks! I couldn't believe that this awesome route wasn't already posted on this site. |
By gio92
Sep 4, 2012
| You should definitely struggle through it if you're in the area. |
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 4, 2012
| Hey Tyler, good point! I'm just getting comfy leading 5.7 and 5.8 fist cracks here on west coast granite. I'd love to go back to Obnoxious Partner and give it another whirl. |
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