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j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
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Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth 
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Yellow Wall, The 

Oblique Twique 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Prestrud, Kraus, Prudden and Warner (FA, 1949) McCarthy (FFA, 1957)
Page Views: 788
Submitted By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007
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Oblique Twique
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Description 

A one-move wonder, Oblique Twique is a decent way to warm up or kill time while waiting for nearby routes to be available. The move in question is somewhat reachy.

Start up the open groove 20' right of The Spring (P1), wiggle into and up the chimney, traverse left, and climb up the open book / corner to a ledge. From here, 3 more pitches of 5.4 continue to the cliff top, but it's easy to traverse left to the shared bolt anchor above the Seasons.


Location 

About 20 feet right of The Spring (P1), below a short chimney.



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By SethG
Jun 30, 2010

I climbed pitch one today, and no, it is not a great climb. I thought two moves were fun: the move to get out of the little chimney, which is probably 5.6, and the move to finish the pitch, which in my opinion was much much harder than 5.8. I guess it follows the frequent Gunks rule that the climb is a 5.8 if it only has one 5.10 move on it.

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

You can slot a bomber small nut in the crack in the open book, just above the one hold on the crux.

By Adam Fernandez
From: Matawan NJ
Dec 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Green C3 also protects the crux well but there is still some good ankle damage potential if you blow the crux move. All in all a fun route even if it is a one move wonder, its a hell of a one move.

By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Mar 28, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Agreed with Seth G.. the crux move is undoubtedly harder than 5.8.. harder than Absurdland, Son of Easy O, Broken Sling, etc...