|El Cohete Lunar
This is a great route which follows an airy, exposed and natural line up the north pillar of El Cohete Lunar. The climbing is a mixture of splitter crack and vertical face climbing.
Pitch 1: Go all the way to the left along the large access ledge. Climb up to bolt anchor up beautiful right facing flake. 10b.
Pitch 2: Thin jams up to roof, traverse out and up. Keep moving up and left, following spaced out bolt line. Clip with LONG slings-drag can be crippling. 2 bolt anchor. 10c
Pitch 3: Straight up, face climbing on patina edges. Steep! Ends at gear belay on ledge. 10b
Pitch 4: 4th class with short 5.5 move to gain ledge on right side of gendarme. 1 bolt anchor, back up with gear.
Pitch 5: Stellar thin hands, hands and fists up corner. Belay atop saddle. 5.9+
Pitch 6: Out to exposed arete and climb up past bolt and around to single bolt belay. Have leader take camera with! 5.8
Pitch 7: Crux. Up face moves to base of roof. Place some extra pro below roof and jam up and over. Keep crimping to another 2 bolt anchor. 10+
Pitch 8: Single difficult move right off belay, pass one bolt and up to summit. Anchor/rap station on far side.
Decent: Single rope rap gets you down to notch, follow cairns around to backside where you will find one more 30 ft rap. Hike back down to base.
Linking pitches 4 & 5 or 5 & 6 is POSSIBLE, but will end up leaving you cursing the rope drag. Just pitch it out and enjoy the climbing!
Far left side of El Cohete Lunar, along main access ledge. Enormous cairn marks the obvious start.
Nuts. Double rack to 3". One 4" piece and a handful of micros. A dozen draws. LOTS of slings.
Arete pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Route takes obvious line up left side to airy summ...
Arete pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: second to last pitch. Suppose to be the crux, but ...
|By Rob Dillon|
Dec 16, 2011
FA Michel Piola, I believe. Puts the please-U in pleasure climbing!
|By Dan Flynn|
Jan 23, 2014
Awesome route. Linked p 5-6 as described here with no great difficulty, such a fun arete!
Recommended descent... couldn't tell you. Probably down the cara banana face. My partner convinced me we should try to rap the route (with some down climbing easy sections). It worked... sort of... don't do it!