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 ADVANCED
Central Gully
Select Route:
Blue In Green S 
Footprints S 
Helicopter Effect T 
Magali's Arete S 
Objectivist Tendencies T 
Rational Expectations S 
Seven Steps to Heaven S 
Snickerdoodle S 
Spontaneous Order S 
Straight, No Chaser T 
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 

Objectivist Tendencies 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Romain Wacziarg and Matthew Fienup (January 2007)
Page Views: 514
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jan 31, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: "Objectivist Tendencies", 5.4.

Description 

Climb up the 3rd class gully to the left of the base of "Permanent Income Hypothesis". At a tree in a gully, start to belay. Angle right up 4th class terrain until you are level with a large tree to the right. Proceed up the ridge (5.4) to a 2-bolt anchor.

This is a good approach to the anchors of "Capitalism and Freedom" or "Natural Rate of Unemployment" for those wishing to toprope those routes.

Location 

APPROACH
From the base of Capitalism and Freedom, traverse left on a narrow ledge and climb a loose, class-3 gully. At the top of the gully, on a grassy ledge, turn right and scramble another 20 feet up to a circular depression in the rock next to a small tree.

DESCENT
Make 2 rappels down Capitalism & Freedom with a 60m rope.

Protection 

A few cams and TCUs, to 2". 2 bolt anchor at the top (both 1/2 inch Rawl-style expansion bolts), i.e. the anchors of "Capitalism and Freedom".


Photos of Objectivist Tendencies Slideshow Add Photo
Topo for Objectivist Tendencies at the Fortress
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Objectivist Tendencies at the Fortress

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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 25, 2009

CONDITION REPORT 
Ryan,
These artifacts have been on site since we began development a few years ago. The 8mm cord (which is badly UV damaged) used to extend all the way down to the base of the Central Gully. It seems that teenagers were using the cord as a hand line to ascend to the ledge below Seven Steps. There was evidence that people had been spending the night on that ledge.

Before other routes were developed, Romain and I would use the 8mm cord to protect ourselves during the scramble to Lunch Ledge.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 2, 2014

Fun historical note:
This is the route that Romain and I used to access the top of the formation that is home to Capitalism & Freedom and Natural Rate of Unemployment. Romain led during the first ascent. After reaching the top, Romain hollered down that I was on belay. Shouldering a heavy pack which contained a rotary hammer drill, bolts, wall hammer, etc., I followed the pitch. When I arrived at the top of what is the most exposed formation in all of the Fortress, Romain was belaying me off his harness. Our anchor was his body which sat straddling the summit block (one leg in the right-side gulley, one in the central gulley). He was backed up by a sketchy cam placed some distance away and below him.

I have never drilled so quickly.