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Moonshiner's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Distillery T 
Oberon T 
Texas Eagle T 
Very Disco T 
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Oberon 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jason Haas, 2005
Page Views: 835
Submitted By: Kevin Wagner on May 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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easier for small hands

Description 

Stunning hand crack in an overhanging featureless dihedral. Rappel from tree to descend.

Location 

Walk past an overhanging area until you reach a large pine near two cracks. This line ascends the stunning overhanging hand crack in the featureless dihedral.

More detailed info provided by Andy Weinmann:
From the approach trail that takes you to the base area of Moonshiners Wall, walk to the left around the crag. Continue following the path around as best as possible. Eventually you'll come to a VERY large hemlock (yes, technically a pine tree)…like 4' in diameter. Oberon is the obvious corner you'll see here. It's about a 5-10 min walk from when you initially get to the crag.

Protection 

Standard rack. Rappel from bolted anchors.


Photos of Oberon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Oberon
Oberon
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lubbersis top roping Oberon.
The Lubbersis top roping Oberon.

Comments on Oberon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Apr 2, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Ok, here's a real description for getting to this climb. From the approach trail that takes you to the base area of Moonshiners Wall, walk to the left around the crag. Continue following the path around as best as possible. Eventually you'll come to a VERY large hemlock (yes, technically a pine tree)…like 4' in diameter. Oberon is the obvious corner you'll see here. It's about a 5-10 min walk from when you initially get to the crag.

Be careful with the start…take a #4 or #5 if you want to protect the moves to get up to the ledge where the main handcrack starts. Be very careful of the paper thin flake to the left of the Oberon corner.

It's a great line, but the very top can get a little wet/dirty. Take at least 3 #2BD cams, preferably 4….2 #3s should do you…maybe 2 or 3 #1s. The line is a shade harder than Brontosaurus over at Pebble Beach. Crux is in your face at the start of the handcrack.
By kck
Jul 15, 2016

Definitely take a couple of #1 C4s because the top needs it. Nothing smaller than #1s though.

The short approach and easy parking makes it possible to pop in for a quick one and still have plenty of time to go elsewhere.

Was shaded mid-morning in the summer, and was pleasant to climb even when the rest of the gorge was mid-90s.

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