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The Overlook
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Obediah 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Baxter et al.
Season: Anytime it's sunny!
Page Views: 975
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 22, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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I thought the start was pretty tricky and not part...

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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Obediah is located down on the right end of the wall where you'll find a striking finger crack in black rock (usually chalked).

Climb the finger crack (crux) then up easier ground to a ledge on the right. A handcrack leads up and left to a sort of in-your-face wide crack. Continue to the top, following cracks right up the exposed arete. Excellent route!


Protection 

Nuts, cams from 0 TCU up to #3 Camalot size.



Photos of Obediah Slideshow Add Photo
Transitioning into the upper part of the climb was certainly a challenge for me, as was finding a good stance for gear placement.
Transitioning into the upper part of the climb was...
The upper arete section of the climb was very airy and exciting, and--while less burly than the finger crack section--still held the grade from my point of view.
The upper arete section of the climb was very airy...
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By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 22, 2006

For even more fun, finish this climb on Sexual Deviations. Step right under the big roof at top and pull over with hands and fists. (5.10+)

By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

You don't actually climb the fingercrack so much as you climb around it. I was disappointed on that front, the rest of the route is unique and exposed. Well worth doing.

By Paul Davidson
Oct 30, 2008

FA Baxter et al.

By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

While I agree with Greg that there is some climbing "around it" at the finger crack, there were also a couple crucial finger locks that were absolutely essential in completing the upper part of the finger portion. I thought it was loads of fun, but I am relatively inexperienced with 5.9 finger cracks--this was my first such onsight. Woohoo!

By Micah Kurtz
Feb 23, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

A classic route! The initial finger crack is delicate but easier then other 9's Ive done at the Overlook.