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Obed & Clear Creek

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Lilly Bluff 
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Obed & Clear Creek  


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Location: 36.1166, -84.7317 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 268,080
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
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Description 

The confluence of Clear Creek and the Obed River are home of a series of beautiful sandstone cliff bands and some of the best sport climbing in the Southeast. Just bring a rack of draws, a stick clip (high first bolts are commonplace in these parts), and guns (double entendre intended). The rock here is Cumberland Plateau sandstone, and the sedimentary layering of the rock tends to form huge horizontal roofs, jugs, and slopers. The rock is generally bullet hard and provides good friction. Climbing happens year-round chase the shade or sun depending on the season.

There are several camping areas but by far the best is Del & Marti Scruggs' place. Del lives in the heart of the Obed and has quite a bit of land that he graciously offers to traveling climbers: As you drive into the Obed, after passing Doc Howard Road on the left, Ridge Road drops steeply down to the Lilly Bridge. Just before this drop there is a mailbox and a gravel drive to the right. Turn here and bear left at the fork. Camping rules and the pay kiosk are on the left (the fee is $5 per person, per night). If you make use of this incredible resource please leave the area nicer than you found it and be considerate: The Scruggs live right amongst the "campsites" which are actually just pulloffs along their driveway. Make sure to bring food/beer/stories to share around the fire on weekends!

Getting There 

About 45 minutes NW of Knoxville. Take highway 27 North through Harriman and Wartburg. Take a left onto highway 62 and follow this windy road through the town of Lancing. After about three miles, turn left again on Ridge Road. This road brings one to the Obed and Clear Creek after only a few miles. For more specific directions, see the area pages.

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.8 miles from here

202 Total Routes

['4 Stars',36],['3 Stars',84],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',8],['5.8',6],['5.9',13],['5.10',41],['5.11',58],['5.12',50],['5.13',14],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Obed & Clear Creek:
Rocking Chair   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Lilly Bluff
Shadowhawk   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Clear Creek : Image Wall
Best Seat In The House   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 85'   South Clear Creek : The Balcony
Christine   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Clear Creek : Stephen King Library
Tarantella   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lilly Bluff
Spawn   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Clear Creek : Image Wall
Whipper Snapper   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Lilly Bluff
Pale Face   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Clear Creek : The Balcony
Heresy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   Lilly Bluff
Tales of the Sperm   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Tieranny Roofs
Saddam Hussein   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 110'   North Clear Creek : North Clear Creek
Tieranny   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Tieranny Roofs
Solstice   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Clear Creek : Solstice Cave
Scalded Dog   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 90'   North Clear Creek : North Clear Creek
Barbwire and Lingerie   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   Y- 12
Rage   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   South Clear Creek : Stephen King Library
Canyon Man   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 120'   Tieranny Roofs
Whatsherface   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 80'   Tieranny Roofs
Maximum Overdrive   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Clear Creek : Stephen King Library
Huecool Senior   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   Tieranny Roofs
Browse More Classics in Obed & Clear Creek

Featured Route For Obed & Clear Creek
Roof of Maximum Overdrive-13a

Maximum Overdrive 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  TN : Obed & Clear Creek : ... : Stephen King Library
Roof climbing at it's best! A 30 foot 12b on slightly overhanging slopers, leads to 35 feet of completely horizontal roof climbing madness. Paw through scoops and slopes to reach a jug in the break just below the massive roof. Although the holds look pretty good from the ground, they all prove to be a bit harder to use than you expect- requiring creative moves and novel footwork to make things manageable. The first four bolts in the roof are the hardest, but the end does not let up. Save a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

Photos of Obed & Clear Creek Slideshow Add Photo
Tang 5.12a
Tang 5.12a
May be tieranny roofs......really not sure was a l...
May be tieranny roofs......really not sure was a l...
Gunslinger 5.11d
Gunslinger 5.11d
Such a scenic area (Clear Creek/Obed)
Such a scenic area (Clear Creek/Obed)

Comments on Obed & Clear Creek Add Comment
Show which comments
By TKHouse
Dec 8, 2011
Worth noting there's now a fantastic full-color guide to the Obed:

greenergrasspublishing.com/gui...

A great investment for any climber who frequents the area!
By Peter Winter
Oct 15, 2012
The Obed area is great. Staying at Del and Marty's is a treat as well. However, the bolts on pretty much all the routes are extremely rusty and need to be replaced.
By Jeff Thilking
From: Lynchburg, VA
Feb 4, 2013
Anyone been to the little clear creek area lately? I headed down the trail today after finding too much ice and melt on Lily Bluffs. Took the trail right by the bathroom by the bridge and followed it to the creek, which was 3 feet deep and raging. Is there a good crossing or bridge I don't know about or should I just ditch the boots and roll up my pants?
By Jeff Edge
May 15, 2013
@Jeff sorry this is a little late, but whenever I got to Little Clear I just take my shoes off and wade (but there could be a better way I don't know about!). I did it this past January (brr!) and the water was frigid but totally worth it, you just gotta choose between wider and shallower or narrow but deeper.
By Jeff Thilking
From: Lynchburg, VA
May 23, 2013
Hey thanks for the info, I barefooted too it in Feb and March and it was hella cold but also worth it. When the trail veers right there used to be a log bridge to the left but it was washed away(more like collapsed, logs are still there ) a couple of months ago. I'll probably try to bring fishing chest waders and rebuild it in the next couple of weeks.
By Chet Butterworth
Oct 2, 2013
Any word on how the government shut down has impacted the Obed? I know it's a part of the National Parks System.
By thomasg
Feb 25, 2014
any good spots to meet partners at obed? we're going as three and would like a forth probably.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2014
Is it possible to climb in the Obed in July? Is there enough shade to chase to make it worth it?
Thanks!
By Jared Krauss
Mar 11, 2014
Any info on where to meet climbers for Obed would be great. Going with my family next week to Gatlinburg and would love to get on some
Rock at Obed. I'm not sure if my rope (new 9.4) will be in yet but I've got draws.

Not sure when I would go climbing, it's up for discussion. We'll be in TN from the 15 to the 20. Could go any day or two. Sport 5.9-510c/d is where I'm at. Happy to be a gun, or follow up
Some harder routes.