Obamanation 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 125 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Sean Cobourn, Allen Irwin, Eddie Medina and Tim Snyder (Jan. '09) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Sean Cobourn on Jan 26, 2009 |
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fun dihedral
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Description Climb the obvious, newly excavated dihedral to a roof. Follow the crack around the right side of roof and then up to a tree. Rap from tree OR,
climb up and slightly left to the Frankenberry anchors, OR,
climb up to the right until under the large roof above. Climb up a short but fun crack then traverse left under the roof. This variation, "Obamanation Continuation" was put up by Shannon Millsaps and Sean Cobourn on December 6, 2009. Lots of trundling of loose blocks involved. Downclimb to Frankenberry anchors which are at the pine below you.
Location At right side of Cereal Buttress, 30 right and uphill of Frankenberry. Until recent excavations, this wall was ensnarled with copious amounts of ancient poison ivy vines, dirt and loose boulders. A couple more ascents and rain storms and it should be pretty clean.
Protection all trad to a 4 Camalot plus trees below and above the roof.
fun roof
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Looking down 2nd pitch Of Obamanation on the FA ac...
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By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Charlotte, NC
Feb 17, 2010
rating: 5.9
| First pitch is a one move wonder. I really liked the second pitch. |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 12, 2010
rating: 5.8
| Cool move out of the roof, bomber hands. Still a few plants growing in the easy corner down low. |
By Sam Stephens
Mar 2, 2011
rating: 5.9
| Did the first pitch of this today. A bat flew out of the crack below the tree and almost hit my girlfriend in the face. Fun moves out the roof for sure.
Thought the roof moves felt like 5.9, only because there were no discernible feet when I came out the roof except for one dime edge. |
By John Saunders
From: Cornelius, NC
Nov 12, 2011
rating: 5.9
| Agree that roof moves felt more 5.9 |
By zFoy
From: Asheville, NC
Feb 17, 2012
| Worth doing essentially for the couple moves out of the roof. The jams here feel solid and fun. Feet quite slick. |
By gneiss pirate
Dec 20, 2012
rating: 5.8
| The second pitch continuation and resultant belay ledge make this climb a worthy endeavor. |
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