P1: Start in the obvious left-facing corner/ramp. Climb the corner until it gets steep. Make moves around to the right onto the face and then to a bolted belay above. 5.8+
Alt. Start 1: From the base of the corner, slab directly out right, then straight up over seams for gear and high quality 8+/9- slab.
Alt. Start 2: The Spermtail Start: From the ground below and 100' right of the corner, climb directly up through the obvious bulge/groove/crack, joining the normal P1 at the belay. 5.11+ or A0.
P2: Traverse right into groove and up over a bulge on hand jams. Continue up groove/crack and face aiming for a lieback flake. Pull this onto face and clip bolt. Slab and face take you to anchors belay the Oasis ledges. 5.9-
P3: Slab up to large ledge and taverse up and right. Continue past the end of the flaring crack and past one bolt. Keep going right, past corner, until you climb up groove to anchors.
P4: see below.
Rap five times to ground on two ropes.
Find the obvious left facing, J-shaped corner. Left of Seconds, right of Fathom.
Single rack, tricams, stoppers, draws, slings, double ropes as usual.
I am right, on the direct start, but this shows th...
Apr 7, 2009
Oasis' Upper Pitches
The third pitch (8) breaks right and traverses (@ about "2 o'clock") past a small right facing corner, a bolt and then up to the groove (the first obvious weakness right of oasis' overhangs).
Pitch 4 (11-) launches up the sustained groove past approximately 6 bolts to the the belay
Pitch 5 (10+) jogs left 5' and then back right following the bolts back into the overhanging groove and up to the belay.
From: Petaluma California
Dec 6, 2009
Onsight. We found these pitches very difficult for the grade posted. After the traverse, the next pitch had a short section of 11a bolted face to a few natural protection features to a much harder short overhang/overlap. After this was runout water groove climbing with marginal gear. The third pitch traversed a bit left, and then back right over 10ish ground. above was another much more difficult overlap with a highstep undercling move. After this, more runout slab.
I thought this was a fantastic finish to an already good route.
|By Dave T|
From: Winston Salem
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Incredible climbing on every pitch.