The original route begins a short distance left of The Way It Should Be, climbing up and left on a ramp to a bolt, moving left, then up a steep face with 3 more bolts. From the last bolt to the top is a wee bit scary. A better start climbs a direct line past a bolt to join the upper 3 bolts. Not the best rock, but when the water level is up, a highly scenic spot. (this week water was spilling over the dam) Maybe 3 stars out of 5 with the direct start.
4 bolts. 2 bolt belay/rap (80 ft).
|Comments on Oasis of Eden, Direct Start
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 3, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
Direct start 5.10d crux is getting to the first bolt so a stick clip might be handy.