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 ADVANCED
Oasis Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Damm Dike T 
Forsaken Mein-Key, The T 
Homowack T 
Oasis of Eden, Direct Start T 
Spring or Fall T 
Spumco T 
Tora Bora T 
Way It Should Be, The T 
Winnin' Time T 

Oasis of Eden, Direct Start 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob and Yvonne Gaines, Feb 1998
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Feb 24, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Oasis of Eden

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Description 

The original route begins a short distance left of The Way It Should Be, climbing up and left on a ramp to a bolt, moving left, then up a steep face with 3 more bolts. From the last bolt to the top is a wee bit scary. A better start climbs a direct line past a bolt to join the upper 3 bolts. Not the best rock, but when the water level is up, a highly scenic spot. (this week water was spilling over the dam) Maybe 3 stars out of 5 with the direct start.

Protection 

4 bolts. 2 bolt belay/rap (80 ft).


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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 3, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Direct start 5.10d crux is getting to the first bolt so a stick clip might be handy.