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Oak Creek Canyon, AZ. March 09. DescriptionOak Creek Canyon is a Grand Daddy of Mogollon Rim drainages! It takes root in Flagstaff, but really starts just south of town in Pumphouse Wash. Then it runs all the way down until it opens up at the entry of Munds Canyon from the east rim, and empties into Sedona... This canyon holds a myriad of side canyons, sub drainages, and a staggering amount of stone, climbing, exploration, and adventure to be had right off the heals of HWY 89.
If you are looking for sport routes, then you have the options of exploring Pumphouse Wash, and the Doctor's Office... Though the sandstone is soft, there are some excellent routes to discover, and some out of the way CLASSIC lines to track down... Pumphouse Wash is also the stunning showcase of the "Ultimates"... These lines are an almost fabled collection of cherished, traditional routes that will test the best, up to 5.11+ fingers, and some burly offwidth if you are so inclined... There is a lot to see down there, and some excellent "hot summer" swimming holes as well...
The Waterfall Area boasts some 80+ routes now, trad and mixed, with the majority of them going down in the 5.11+/.12- range... Indeed! You can expect splitter cracks, steep jug hauls, and very thin technical lines! The climbing really starts at solid 5.10 trad, and only gets exponentially better from there! Bring a 70M rope, a robust rack, and your game! Not a place for the faint of heart.
And, on top of all that, if you want to get in a superb sandstone bouldering session, The Anvil Boulders are a collection of wonderful and rare blocks all conveniently (or maybe not so because of the creek crossing?) located 200 yards on the East side of Oak Creek just a hop and skip drive north out of Sedona. V-easy to V-super-hard- inspiring! Some very cool steep lines! Find this area in the Northern AZ Bouldering section.
Oak Creek Canyon is a treasure to many, and a focal point to climbers in this area for harboring a wide variety of crags, which can be intimidating, but also accessible year round, if you play your cards right. It is an awesome place to visit, and climb in, and an arduous place to explore off the beaten path! Watch out for tourists, rattle snakes, rock fall, hard approaches- and mellow ones, slow drivers (with their cameras stuck outside the window), soft sandstone, hard sandstone, and impeccable stone as well...! There is obviously much more to be found in this expansive canyon than is listed here.... Be ready to "earn your burns", and engage with an environment that always seems to be coming after you! Yah, you personally... An intriguing landscape! Getting ThereTake 89 south from Flagstaff, or north from Sedona. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
The Sword 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Waterfall : The Left Wall
Black and Tan 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater
Book Of Friends 5.10c Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Miscellaneous Routes
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Waterfall : The Left Wall
Engagement 5.10+ Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet Miscellaneous Routes
Spite and Malice 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet The Waterfall : The Left Wall
Lord Humongous 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater
False Prophet 5.11 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater
Vertebrae 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Waterfall : The Left Wall
Death and Taxes 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater
Natural Enhancement 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet The Waterfall : The Right Wall
Resurrection 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet The Waterfall : The Right Wall
Ultimate Finger Crack 5.11+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet, Grade II Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke...
Into The Wild 5.12a Trad, 9 pitches, 900 feet Miscellaneous Routes
American Caesar 5.12- Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Waterfall : The Right Wall
Super Chronic 5.12- Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall
Terminator 5.12 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Waterfall : The Left Wall
Synethesia AKA Linger Fickin Good! 5.12+ Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Doctor's Office & The P...
There Will Be Blood 5.12+ Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater
The Center of Singularity 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch Slide Rock State Park
Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
 Furthest route right on the right side of the ampitheater. It is easily discernible by the double roofs at the top of the pitch. Start climbing up blocky rock/with cracks to the start of the dihedral. From there, jam, stem, and pull to the first roof which is the crux. Exiting the right side requires a big move... The next roof is cruiser in comparison. ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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