Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Oak Creek Canyon

Select Area...
1st Bend Crag 
Hueco Wall 
Tanner Dome 
West Bend Crag 

Oak Creek Canyon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.31063, -105.24943 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,685
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Todd Miller on May 2, 2004
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Closure sign posted at approximately the 12 mile r...

Description 

Fantastic climbing in the northern wet mountains , 9 miles south of Canon City. A fun alternative to shelf road, with far more moderates. It is quite popular. There is a site with downloadable guide. I think there are about 150 routes or so, mostly granite sport climbs. I have climbed routes from 5.6 to 5.11 but there are many harder routes if you can climb that hard. Tannner Dome is the primary attraction, though there are many crags on which to climb.

Online guide: users.adelphia.net/~bill.schmausser/default.htm


Getting There 

Taken from the online guide:

From Canon City take 4th street left/south, over the Arkansas river, about 1 mile. At this point the road takes a 90 degree left turn. T this point turn right on to county road 143. Drive this until you go up the big hill, you won't miss it. 2 mles after this you park and climbing awaits. on the north side of the road.


Climbing Season


40 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',2],['5.9',9],['5.10',11],['5.11',10],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Tanner Classic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Tanner Dome
Zing   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanner Dome
Amp Left   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Tanner Dome
Rightist   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Tanner Dome
30,000 Casualties   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanner Dome
Amp Right   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   Tanner Dome
Clippers and Saws   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Tanner Dome
Pendejo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 330'   Tanner Dome
Chickamauga   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanner Dome
Browse More Classics in Oak Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
A real beauty!

Clippers and Saws 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  CO : The Wet Mountains : ... : Tanner Dome
The route begins by scrambling up to the 1st of two wide pods. You can walk a 3.5 cam to protect the first pod. Exit the first pod going over a small bulge with a finger crack. Continue up past the 2nd small pod into the 30 splitter finger crack. Perfect ring locks and lay-backing off the lichen covered wall will get you near the top of the crack where you can grab a solid jug. Another 20 of easy face climbing will get you to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Oak Creek Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2004

Isn't this place also called Tanner Dome?

By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Aug 29, 2004

Tanner Dome is just one of the climbing areas along Oak Creek Grade Road. It is the only one closed anually April 1-July 31 for raptors.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2006

A large portion of this area is closed from April 1st to August 1st every year due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. I believe the closure applies to all of the Tanner Dome Complex. You can be fined up to $5,000 and be imprisoned for up to 6 months for violating the closure. The program seems to be working, because I saw a pair of Peregrine's soaring on 5/14/06. I believe the other formations in the area are open.