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Oak Creek Canyon

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1st Bend Crag 
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Oak Creek Canyon  


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Location: 38.31063, -105.24943 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Todd Miller on May 2, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Closure sign posted at approximately the 12 mile r...

Description 

Oak Creek Canyon has fantastic climbing in the northern Wet Mountains, 9 miles south of Canon City. It is a fun alternative to Shelf Road, with far more moderates. It is quite popular. There is a site with downloadable guide. I think there are about 150 routes or so, mostly granite sport climbs. I have climbed routes from 5.6 to 5.11, but there are many harder routes if you can climb that hard. Tannner Dome is the primary attraction, though there are many crags on which to climb.

Online guide: users.adelphia.net/~bill.schma....

Getting There 

Taken from the online guide:

From Canon City take 4th street left/south, over the Arkansas river, about 1 mile. At this point the road takes a 90 degree left turn. T this point turn right on to county road 143. Drive this until you go up the big hill, you won't miss it. 2 mles after this you park and climbing awaits. on the north side of the road.


Climbing Season



Weather station 8.5 miles from here

40 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',2],['5.9',9],['5.10',11],['5.11',10],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Tanner Classic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Tanner Dome
Zing   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanner Dome
Amp Left   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Tanner Dome
Rightist   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Tanner Dome
30,000 Casualties   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanner Dome
Amp Right   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   Tanner Dome
Clippers and Saws   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Tanner Dome
Pendejo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 330'   Tanner Dome
Chickamauga   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanner Dome
Browse More Classics in Oak Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
30,000 Casualities. <br /> <br />Steeper than it looks.

30,000 Casualties 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : The Wet Mountains : ... : Tanner Dome
This climb is located on the Civil Wall, immediately to the right of Tanner Dome.Just right of the chimney which marks the start of several climbs on Civil Wall, this excellent mixed route climbs the most obvious weakness on a steep pink-granite face. The first part climbs a trickier-than-it-looks face past bolts to an exciting stand-up move over a bulge. Those with more patience than I may be able to better protect with RPs in a seam here. Clip another bolt, then traverse left to the crack. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Oak Creek Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2004
Isn't this place also called Tanner Dome?
By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Aug 29, 2004
Tanner Dome is just one of the climbing areas along Oak Creek Grade Road. It is the only one closed anually April 1-July 31 for raptors.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2006
A large portion of this area is closed from April 1st to August 1st every year due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. I believe the closure applies to all of the Tanner Dome Complex. You can be fined up to $5,000 and be imprisoned for up to 6 months for violating the closure. The program seems to be working, because I saw a pair of Peregrine's soaring on 5/14/06. I believe the other formations in the area are open.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 18, 2014
The link to the online guide referenced above no longer works.

(Edit: To those who sent me a copy or offered to- THANKS!)