Oak Creek Canyon Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Closure sign posted at approximately the 12 mile r...
Oak Creek Canyon has fantastic climbing in the northern Wet Mountains, 9 miles south of Canon City. It is a fun alternative to Shelf Road, with far more moderates. It is quite popular. There is a site with downloadable guide. I think there are about 150 routes or so, mostly granite sport climbs. I have climbed routes from 5.6 to 5.11, but there are many harder routes if you can climb that hard. Tannner Dome is the primary attraction, though there are many crags on which to climb.
Online guide: users.adelphia.net/~bill.schma...
Taken from the online guide:
From Canon City take 4th street left/south, over the Arkansas river, about 1 mile. At this point the road takes a 90 degree left turn. T this point turn right on to county road 143. Drive this until you go up the big hill, you won't miss it. 2 mles after this you park and climbing awaits. on the north side of the road.
Weather station 8.5 miles from here
42 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Oak Creek Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oak Creek Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
Clippers and Saws 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b CO
: The Wet Mountains
: ... : Tanner Dome
The route begins by scrambling up to the 1st of two wide pods. You can walk a 3.5 cam to protect the first pod. Exit the first pod going over a small bulge with a finger crack. Continue up past the 2nd small pod into the 30 splitter finger crack. Perfect ring locks and lay-backing off the lichen covered wall will get you near the top of the crack where you can grab a solid jug. Another 20 of easy face climbing will get you to the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
It was a gorgeous day at Oak Creek Canyon!
By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Aug 29, 2004
Tanner Dome is just one of the climbing areas along Oak Creek Grade Road. It is the only one closed anually April 1-July 31 for raptors.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2006
A large portion of this area is closed from April 1st to August 1st every year due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. I believe the closure applies to all of the Tanner Dome Complex. You can be fined up to $5,000 and be imprisoned for up to 6 months for violating the closure. The program seems to be working, because I saw a pair of Peregrine's soaring on 5/14/06. I believe the other formations in the area are open.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 18, 2014
The link to the online guide referenced above no longer works.
(Edit: To those who sent me a copy or offered to- THANKS!)
By Cory Eales
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 1, 2015
Does anyone have a copy of the online guide they would be willing to send?