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DescriptionThis is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab. Getting ThereTo get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Solar Slab 5.6 Trad, 9 pitches, 1220 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Going Nuts 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Johnny Vegas 5.7 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Sunburn 5.7 Trad, 12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Rainbow Buttress 5.8 Trad, 8 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV Eagle Wall
Sunspot Ridge 5.8 Trad, 12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Heliotrope 5.8 R Trad, 5 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Coltrane 5.9 R Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Upper Oak Creek Canyon
Frieda's Flake 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Sunflower 5.9 R Trad, 6 pitches, 850 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
The Friar 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Arch Enemy 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Sundog 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Beulah's Book 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Black Orpheus 5.9+ Trad, 8 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Solar Flare 5.10- Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Xyphoid Fever 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Eagle Dance 5.10 A1 Trad, Sport, Aid, 11 pitches, 900 feet, Grade V Eagle Wall
Red Zinger 5.10+ Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Levitation 29 5.11 Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Eagle Wall
Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
Chicken Lips 5.10a NV : Red Rock : ... : Upper Painted Bowl
Chicken Lips is a good route. It has friction, thin face, hand crack, layback, and chimney climbing spread over a logical line up a very cool piece of rock. However, it is solidly in the 'adventure-climb' category and will stay there until it gets re-bolted. If your experience on a climb is tarnished (or inflated) by poor protection and face climbing on hollow flakes, you may adjust the quality rating of this climb accordingly. There are a lot of bolts on this route, most of which are rusty 26 y...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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