Oak Creek Canyon Rock Climbing
Looking down Oak Creek Canyon from the bivy at the...
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This is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab.
The south side of the canyon mouth is dominated by the Cactus Flower Tower and its associated Blood Wall and Oakey Buttress.
Further upstream, on the north side of the canyon, one finds the sweeping Painted Bowl, Eagle Wall, and Celebration Wall. In this area are local classics such as Rainbow Buttress and Levitation 29. The beautiful slabs in the upper part of the canyon are worth the hike (or you can pass them on the descent from the summit area of Rainbow Mountain). Oak Creek's southern branches are an area of complex topography and few recorded climbs.
To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.
An alternative approach avoids the scenic loop. Park on Highway 159 about a half mile south of the exit gate from the scenic loop road. A hikers' gate in the barbed wire fence leads to a trail that heads straight west into Oak Creek Canyon. The trail stays to the north of the Oak Creek wash and joins up with the main trail just before reaching the mouth of the canyon.
Weather station 2.4 miles from here
67 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Oak Creek Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oak Creek Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
Eagle Dance 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
: Red Rock
: ... : Eagle Wall
This route is really easy to follow as it takes all the obvious weaknesses and follows enough bolts to never get lost. From a shallow dihedral 50 feet east of a 150' pillar the climb goes up through the Eagles neck on the standard 5th pitch. The overhanging bolt ladder on the 8th pitch is a sandbag but the incredible positioning makes for a pleasant aid pitch. The route continues all the way to the top of the wall and that is worth doing. However most people rap 1 or 2 pitches after the bolt la...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
By Ira O'Meara
From: Hardwick, VT
Jan 29, 2016
How crowded should I expect to find the solar slabs in mid-week, early February? I obviously would like to do the classics like everyone else but for me solitude and natural beauty are a part of route quality. Any recommendations for moderate, warm multi-pitch that would be relatively quiet in early Feb? I know this is Red Rocks and its not like I need to be away from all people, just don't want to be part of a crowd, get in the way myself, or wait in line. Thanks!