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Oak Creek Canyon

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Black Orpheus Amphitheater 
Eagle Wall 
Friar and Byrd Pinnacle, The 
Oak Creek Canyon Bouldering 
Silly Patch Boulders 
Solar Slab - Lower Tier 
Solar Slab - Upper Tier 
South Fork - Oak Creek 
Upper Oak Creek Canyon 
Upper Painted Bowl 

Oak Creek Canyon Rock Climbing 


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Location: 36.10169, -115.48876 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004
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Looking down Oak Creek Canyon from the bivy at the...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab.

The south side of the canyon mouth is dominated by the Cactus Flower Tower and its associated Blood Wall and Oakey Buttress.

Further upstream, on the north side of the canyon, one finds the sweeping Painted Bowl, Eagle Wall, and Celebration Wall. In this area are local classics such as Rainbow Buttress and Levitation 29. The beautiful slabs in the upper part of the canyon are worth the hike (or you can pass them on the descent from the summit area of Rainbow Mountain). Oak Creek's southern branches are an area of complex topography and few recorded climbs.

Getting There 

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.

An alternative approach avoids the scenic loop. Park on Highway 159 about a half mile south of the exit gate from the scenic loop road. A hikers' gate in the barbed wire fence leads to a trail that heads straight west into Oak Creek Canyon. The trail stays to the north of the Oak Creek wash and joins up with the main trail just before reaching the mouth of the canyon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

67 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',10],['5.9',13],['5.10',12],['5.11',10],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',6],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Oak Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Blood Trails   V5 6C     Boulder, Grade V   Oak Creek Canyon Bouldering
Solar Slab   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 9 pitches, 1220'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Johnny Vegas   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Heliotrope   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 5 pitches, 750'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Rainbow Buttress   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 8 pitches, 1200'   Eagle Wall
Sunflower   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 6 pitches, 850'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Sundog   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Xyphoid Left   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Arch Enemy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Beulah's Book   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 550'   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Black Orpheus   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 8 pitches, 1500'   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Chicken Lips   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   Upper Painted Bowl
Xyphoid Fever   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Eagle Dance   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+     Trad, Sport, Aid, 11 pitches, 900'   Eagle Wall
Red Zinger   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
The Secret World of Arrietty   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Levitation 29   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 700'   Eagle Wall
Line Of Addiction   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   South Fork - Oak Creek : Pirate Wall
Tuscarora   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
The Black Widow   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oak Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Morley jugs the short A0 ladder on pitch 7.

Eagle Dance 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+  NV : Red Rock : ... : Eagle Wall
This route is really easy to follow as it takes all the obvious weaknesses and follows enough bolts to never get lost. From a shallow dihedral 50 feet east of a 150' pillar the climb goes up through the Eagles neck on the standard 5th pitch. The overhanging bolt ladder on the 8th pitch is a sandbag but the incredible positioning makes for a pleasant aid pitch. The route continues all the way to the top of the wall and that is worth doing. However most people rap 1 or 2 pitches after the bolt la...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Oak Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: bighorn sheep
bighorn sheep
Rock Climbing Photo: So that's how those waterstreaks get there.  A sum...
So that's how those waterstreaks get there. A sum...
Rock Climbing Photo: The beginning of many an adventure start here.  Oa...
The beginning of many an adventure start here. Oa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken 2/19/08 from the Solar Slab Terrace.  Beauti...
Taken 2/19/08 from the Solar Slab Terrace. Beauti...
Rock Climbing Photo: oak creek canyon on a stormy day
oak creek canyon on a stormy day
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down Oak Creek Canyon.
Looking down Oak Creek Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the start of solar slab from the t...
Looking down on the start of solar slab from the t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Walking into Oak Creek Canyon
Walking into Oak Creek Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Oak Creek Canyon from the ol' campground.
Oak Creek Canyon from the ol' campground.

Comments on Oak Creek Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ira O'Meara
From: Hardwick, VT
Jan 29, 2016
How crowded should I expect to find the solar slabs in mid-week, early February? I obviously would like to do the classics like everyone else but for me solitude and natural beauty are a part of route quality. Any recommendations for moderate, warm multi-pitch that would be relatively quiet in early Feb? I know this is Red Rocks and its not like I need to be away from all people, just don't want to be part of a crowd, get in the way myself, or wait in line. Thanks!

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