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Oak Creek Canyon

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Afterburner Wall 
Black Orpheus Amphitheater 
Eagle Wall 
Friar and Byrd Pinnacle, The 
Oak Creek Canyon Bouldering 
Solar Slab - Lower Tier 
Solar Slab - Upper Tier 
South Fork - Oak Creek 
Upper Oak Creek Canyon 
Upper Painted Bowl 

Oak Creek Canyon 


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Location: 36.10169, -115.48876 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004
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Looking down Oak Creek Canyon from the bivy at the...

Description 

This is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab.

The south side of the canyon mouth is dominated by the Cactus Flower Tower and its associated Blood Wall and Oakey Buttress.

Further upstream, on the north side of the canyon, one finds the sweeping Painted Bowl, Eagle Wall, and Celebration Wall. In this area are local classics such as Rainbow Buttress and Levitation 29. The beautiful slabs in the upper part of the canyon are worth the hike (or you can pass them on the descent from the summit area of Rainbow Mountain). Oak Creek's southern branches are an area of complex topography and few recorded climbs.


Getting There 

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.

An alternative approach avoids the scenic loop. Park on Highway 159 about a half mile south of the exit gate from the scenic loop road. A hikers' gate in the barbed wire fence leads to a trail that heads straight west into Oak Creek Canyon. The trail stays to the north of the Oak Creek wash and joins up with the main trail just before reaching the mouth of the canyon.


Climbing Season


60 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',10],['5.9',13],['5.10',12],['5.11',11],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Pork Chop Sandwich   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   Oak Creek Canyon Bouldering
Solar Slab   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 9 pitches, 1220'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Going Nuts   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Johnny Vegas   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Rainbow Buttress   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 8 pitches, 1200'   Eagle Wall
Sunspot Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 12 pitches, 1500'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Heliotrope   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 5 pitches, 750'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Sundog   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Xyphoid Left   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Beulah's Book   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 550'   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Sunflower   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 6 pitches, 850'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Arch Enemy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Black Orpheus   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 8 pitches, 1500'   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Chicken Lips   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   Upper Painted Bowl
Solar Flare   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Eagle Dance   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Sport, Aid, 11 pitches, 900'   Eagle Wall
Red Zinger   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
The Secret World of Arrietty   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Levitation 29   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 700'   Eagle Wall
Line Of Addiction   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   South Fork - Oak Creek : Pirate Wall
Browse More Classics in Oak Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
The Cat and Arrietty

The Secret World of Arrietty 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Orpheus Amphitheater
The Secret World of Arrietty climbs the arch-feature immediately left of the Plate of Fate, pulling through the massive yawning roof right at it's widest. This is a great new route with wild and burly climbing, mostly excellent rock, and great pro. No move is probably harder than 10d, but the cumulative effects of placing gear and sussing out the sequences on the fly are quite taxing - especially if you're not good with your knee bars or hand jams! Super fun and awaiting a second ascent! Begi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Oak Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
bighorn sheep
bighorn sheep
So that's how those waterstreaks get there.  A summer storm produces cataracts on the south side of Oak Creek.
So that's how those waterstreaks get there. A sum...
The beginning of many an adventure start here.  Oak Creek Canyon with Mt. Wilson on the left and Solar Slab on the right side of the canyon.
The beginning of many an adventure start here. Oa...
Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Taken 2/19/08 from the Solar Slab Terrace.  Beautiful views of the Cactus Flower Tower area can be had.  <br /> <br />(Jonny can be seen at the bottom of picture) <br /> <br />
Taken 2/19/08 from the Solar Slab Terrace. Beauti...
oak creek canyon on a stormy day
oak creek canyon on a stormy day
Looking down Oak Creek Canyon.
Looking down Oak Creek Canyon.
Looking down on the start of solar slab from the top of the 4th pitch
Looking down on the start of solar slab from the t...
Walking into Oak Creek Canyon
Walking into Oak Creek Canyon
Oak Creek Canyon from the ol' campground.
Oak Creek Canyon from the ol' campground.
Comments on Oak Creek Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 9, 2004

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.