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Oak Creek Canyon
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Black Orpheus Amphitheater 
Eagle Wall 
Friar and Byrd Pinnacle, The 
Oak Creek Canyon Bouldering 
Solar Slab - Lower Tier 
Solar Slab - Upper Tier 
South Fork - Oak Creek 
Upper Oak Creek Canyon 
Upper Painted Bowl 

Oak Creek Canyon 


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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004

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The beginning of many an adventure start here. Oa...

Description 

This is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab.

The south side of the canyon mouth is dominated by the Cactus Flower Tower and its associated Blood Wall and Oakey Buttress.

Further upstream, on the north side of the canyon, one finds the sweeping Painted Bowl, Eagle Wall, and Celebration Wall. In this area are local classics such as Rainbow Buttress and Levitation 29. The beautiful slabs in the upper part of the canyon are worth the hike (or you can pass them on the descent from the summit area of Rainbow Mountain). Oak Creek's southern branches are an area of complex topography and few recorded climbs.


Getting There 

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.

An alternative approach avoids the scenic loop. Park on Highway 159 about a half mile south of the exit gate from the scenic loop road. A hikers' gate in the barbed wire fence leads to a trail that heads straight west into Oak Creek Canyon. The trail stays to the north of the Oak Creek wash and joins up with the main trail just before reaching the mouth of the canyon.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Solar Slab   5.6     Trad, 9 pitches, 1220 feet, Grade III   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Going Nuts   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Johnny Vegas   5.7     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Sunburn   5.7     Trad, 12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Rainbow Buttress   5.8     Trad, 8 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV   Eagle Wall
Sunspot Ridge   5.8     Trad, 12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Heliotrope   5.8 R     Trad, 5 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Coltrane   5.9 R     Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   Upper Oak Creek Canyon
Frieda's Flake   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Sunflower   5.9 R     Trad, 6 pitches, 850 feet, Grade III   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
The Friar   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Arch Enemy   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Sundog   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Beulah's Book   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Black Orpheus   5.9+     Trad, 8 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Solar Flare   5.10-     Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Xyphoid Fever   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Eagle Dance   5.10 A1     Trad, Sport, Aid, 11 pitches, 900 feet, Grade V   Eagle Wall
Red Zinger   5.10+     Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Levitation 29   5.11     Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   Eagle Wall
Browse More Classics in Oak Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
Chicken Lips, from the base of the Upper Painted Bowl.

Chicken Lips 5.10a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Upper Painted Bowl
Chicken Lips is a good route. It has friction, thin face, hand crack, layback, and chimney climbing spread over a logical line up a very cool piece of rock. However, it is solidly in the 'adventure-climb' category and will stay there until it gets re-bolted. If your experience on a climb is tarnished (or inflated) by poor protection and face climbing on hollow flakes, you may adjust the quality rating of this climb accordingly. There are a lot of bolts on this route, most of which are rusty 26 y...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of Oak Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down Oak Creek Canyon from the bivy at the top of Celebration Wall.

Looking down Oak Creek Canyon from the bivy at the...

Taken 2/19/08 from the Solar Slab Terrace.  Beautiful views of the Cactus Flower Tower area can be had.  <br /> <br />(Jonny can be seen at the bottom of picture) <br /> <br />

Taken 2/19/08 from the Solar Slab Terrace. Beauti...

So that's how those waterstreaks get there.  A summer storm produces cataracts on the south side of Oak Creek.

So that's how those waterstreaks get there. A sum...

bighorn sheep

bighorn sheep

Looking down on the start of solar slab from the top of the 4th pitch

Looking down on the start of solar slab from the t...

Oak Creek Canyon from the ol' campground.

Oak Creek Canyon from the ol' campground.

oak creek canyon on a stormy day

oak creek canyon on a stormy day

Walking into Oak Creek Canyon

Walking into Oak Creek Canyon

Looking down Oak Creek Canyon.

Looking down Oak Creek Canyon.


Comments on Oak Creek Canyon Add Comment
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By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 9, 2004

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.