O) Reefer Madness  M7+

397 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  M7+ [details] FA:  James Loveridge New Route:  Yes Season:  Winter Mixed / Fall Drytooling Submitted By:  James Loveridge on Jan 28, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Reefer Madness - View from a little ways back (Feb...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Location 

About 30 feet left of Big Blue is a broken left facing corner that leads to a section of groove/seams. In average years there should be a dagger up top to finish on. In dryer seasons you should be able to see the anchors on the left side of a block that juts out from the top.

Description 

Start at the base of a broken Left facing corner. Climb up steepening corner on chossy jugs to gain stance on a loose feeling but bomber block on the right (It’s been abused by a 5’ crowbar to no avail so go ahead and yard on it). Follow junky flakes and ledges (don’t get suckered to the left!) to a groove/vertical seam system to the base of the crux headwall. When dry; go up and slightly right on small holds to the turf sticks/tree hooks that let you clip the anchors. When icy; go up and left to an ok stance below the dagger, then pull dagger to get established on the ice. A couple swings and you’re at the anchors.

Protection 

9 Quickdraws for bolts. NOTE: If you get on this early in the season you might have to chop out some of the bolts. In a fat year the last bolt might be covered by the dagger so it might be wise to bring a screw. Also- the anchors might need some hacking to clear them of ice. If you can’t see them from the ground, I’d recommend bringing a short screw to hang from if you are not sure about their status and have to chop them out.

Photos of O) Reefer Madness Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: Reefer Madness - View from below (Feb '08)

Matt G. Pulling the ice on Reefer Madness