O) Reefer Madness
||Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: ||M7+ [details]|
|FA: ||James Loveridge|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter Mixed / Fall Drytooling|
|Page Views: ||465|
|Submitted By: ||James Loveridge on Jan 28, 2008|
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BETA PHOTO: Reefer Madness - View from a little ways back (Feb...
About 30 feet left of Big Blue is a broken left facing corner that leads to a section of groove/seams. In average years there should be a dagger up top to finish on. In dryer seasons you should be able to see the anchors on the left side of a block that juts out from the top.
Start at the base of a broken Left facing corner. Climb up steepening corner on chossy jugs to gain stance on a loose feeling but bomber block on the right (Itís been abused by a 5í crowbar to no avail so go ahead and yard on it). Follow junky flakes and ledges (donít get suckered to the left!) to a groove/vertical seam system to the base of the crux headwall. When dry; go up and slightly right on small holds to the turf sticks/tree hooks that let you clip the anchors. When icy; go up and left to an ok stance below the dagger, then pull dagger to get established on the ice. A couple swings and youíre at the anchors.
9 Quickdraws for bolts. NOTE: If you get on this early in the season you might have to chop out some of the bolts. In a fat year the last bolt might be covered by the dagger so it might be wise to bring a screw. Also- the anchors might need some hacking to clear them of ice. If you canít see them from the ground, Iíd recommend bringing a short screw to hang from if you are not sure about their status and have to chop them out.
BETA PHOTO: Reefer Madness - View from below (Feb '08)
Matt G. Pulling the ice on Reefer Madness