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West End Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Flickering Flame T 
Cash, Grass, or Ass T 
Jade Feather T 
Like A Shadow In the Night T 
Nyctophiliac  T 
Phantasm T 

Nyctophiliac  

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall
Page Views: 2,286
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 10, 2013

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On my first run, gunning to the "gravity amp&...

Description 

Nyctophilia is a love of nighttime or darkness, and the route was named for the striking black streak which defines the line. The route is a jaw dropping, heart kicking, scream inducing, all natural gear line which climbs the center of the afore mentioned streak, on the West End Wall to the climber's right of Phantasm. For the grade there are few that compare.

This steep, bouldery crack climb starts out with 50' of thoughtful "Overlookesque" trad daddy terrain with vertical fingers, and small hands jamming. Several different block boulder problems add some intrigue to the growing mystery.

A very natural break after the intro offers a fantastic rest, and the opportunity to eye the dark, overhanging finger crack which looms eerily above. 5.11 climbing off the break leads to a conspicuous orange jug, and the entrance to the very definitive crux section. Despite the positive holds and finger locks(?) you'll use everything you've ever learned at Paradise Forks to gain the "gravity amp" jug which splits the crux into two sections. Getting your feet onto this large jug is harder than you might first expect, and the moves here are wildly exposed. It's also the apex of the routes steepness. Fret not however, because the gear on this 125' monster is as biter as it comes. The original pitch stays in the lefthand black system, and does not meld into Like A Shadow In the Night just right. I'd hate to see you cheat yourself of the full value experience.

This pitch conjured memories of Acid Test Crack at the Forks because of the crisp jamming, dramatic stances, boulder problem cruxes, and it's just a striking line. If you're a conasuier of 5.12 basalt trad climbing, you are not going to want to pass up this out of the way line. It's hands down the coolest route I've climbed in Volunteer, and the gear is straight forward making it an awesome onsight objective or even that first .12- gear project. The isolation is good for such things.....

Location 

About 20' to the climbers right of Phantasm. Rap down the large drainage 125' to a perched boulder ledge belay. The belay takes #.3 through #.75 BD pieces. Nyctophiliac starts left of belay, on giant grey flake.

Protection 

I essentially used a triple set from #.3 through #1 camalots, and some folks might like some smaller, and larger units. Medium wires.


Photos of Nyctophiliac Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: stopping in the middle of the crux to get that muc...
stopping in the middle of the crux to get that muc...
Rock Climbing Photo: .
.
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ plugging it in on the "orange" jug du...
JJ plugging it in on the "orange" jug du...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tamara digging into the dreamy crux section.
Tamara digging into the dreamy crux section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Staring it down from the break at 50'
Staring it down from the break at 50'
Rock Climbing Photo: Nyctophiliac photo topo.
BETA PHOTO: Nyctophiliac photo topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tamara staring down the darkness.
Tamara staring down the darkness.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tamara hanging it out on the Orange jug, before th...
Tamara hanging it out on the Orange jug, before th...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux is followed by a stunning section of 5.10...
The crux is followed by a stunning section of 5.10...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tamara Hastie unlocking the cruxy intricacies of N...
Tamara Hastie unlocking the cruxy intricacies of N...

Comments on Nyctophiliac Add Comment
Show which comments
By Clay Mansfield
Nov 13, 2013

Description has me sold
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Mar 10, 2014

Is this a climb or a promo for a Bruckheimer movie?
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 16, 2014

Action, adventure, and you'll fall in love with the gear.... Heartache and revenge.... But the good guy always wins in the end.
By Blake M
Jul 10, 2014

Great route. Thanks for the addition JJ
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 11, 2014

Finding a diamond in the rough is always exciting, but knowing the line is getting some love and getting people psyched is even better. Well done Blake. It may be the second ascent unless someone chimes in here somewhere...somehow.

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