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North End
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Juggernaut T 
Lark's Tongue T 
Middle Road S 
Mighty Mouse T 
Nevermore T 
Nevermore (The other one) T 
Nicotine T,S 
Nutsweat T 
Rastafari T 
Reckless Abandon T 
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Superman's Dead T 
Unknown T 
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Visual Splendor T 
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Windigo T 

Nutsweat 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Fisher, Jim Overby 1981
Page Views: 2,205
Submitted By: Alexander Blum on Jul 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Climber wrapping up at the top of Nutsweat, just p...

Description 

The guidebook lists this as two pitches, but I think that would be a really silly way to climb this. Long runners at the very beginning keep rope drag nonexistent.

Start on the ledge that Nutsweat, Death Wish, and Reckless abandon all begin on. Negotiate a short crack/weakness through a bulge, when you pop up over this head up and left through a beautiful green corner. Near the top traverse left into a right facing corner (crux). Continue traversing left out the stupendous overhangs towards the fixed anchor.

Gear is adequate but you could go for a pretty big ride in one or two spots. Belay your second up from the anchor, one 60m rope will just get you down.

Location 

North End

Protection 

Small nuts help at the high crux.


Photos of Nutsweat Slideshow Add Photo
View up at the traverse to the finish from the green arete section. That undercut=instant exposure.
BETA PHOTO: View up at the traverse to the finish from the gre...
View from being lowered, near the anchor. Fairly long route (ps: there is more gear if you look for it - that crack on the right face for example). Arete is kinda crumbly but mostly easy, gear where you need it before and after the cruxes.
BETA PHOTO: View from being lowered, near the anchor. Fairly l...
Climber moving into crux 1.
Climber moving into crux 1.

Comments on Nutsweat Add Comment
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By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 8, 2011

One pitch is the way to go. One 60 gets you down perfectly. The variety and exposure on this route are unreal. Find gear in the dihedral, crux into the traverse, and head out into a jug haul that, in my opinion, beats the Zoo View roof any day. I can't say enough good things about this route. Do it.
By Matt Westlake
Nov 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

One more thing to note - the arete is pretty mild climbing but gear is a bit sparse and there are sections of loose rock so don't get too casual because the climbing is easy. In particular near the top there is a thin curtain of rock that is tempting to use probably a bit too much. Still, a good route worth your time.
By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbing is just OK, but it gets an extra star for the exposure.