Type: | Sport |
FA: | Alan Nelson, Alan Bartlett, 3/89 |
Page Views: | 1,189 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Alan Nelson on Dec 12, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
While remote, this route exemplifies a little piece of climbing history: the dawn of the sportclimbing era. It was the last route I drilled by hand, and the first route on which I set 3/8" bolts. It was established from the ground up, but is the only time I ever used aid from hooks on lead for the drilling stances.
Always the guy with the eye for obscure, remote new lines, it was Alan Bartlett who talked me into the walk up the hill. Formerly a climbing guide in Yosemite, he was doing a stint at Chockstone Press when I moved to Colorado. He scoped out the wall on one of his rambles, and lured me with tales of glorious first ascents. Thus bedazzled, I threw a drilling kit in the top of the pack and we were off.
After warming up on "Ohmer's Odyssey", the classic 5.9 crack splitting the middle of the wall, we got to work on "Nuts and Volts" to the left. An initial right-facing flake/arch took a couple of nuts, then petered out. Near vertical face-climbing on pockets and pebbles lead onward, but lacked anything remotely suitable for a free drilling stance. Out came the hook, followed by the drill and the hammer. Fortyfive minutes later the first bolt was in, and a couple hours after that the hard labor was finished and I had blisters on both hands.
After a quick trip to the deck and a drink of water, we pulled the rope, then relead the pitch to make it "official". We wrapped up the day by climbing everything else on the wall. A week later I ordered my Hilti and the world has never been the same.
Always the guy with the eye for obscure, remote new lines, it was Alan Bartlett who talked me into the walk up the hill. Formerly a climbing guide in Yosemite, he was doing a stint at Chockstone Press when I moved to Colorado. He scoped out the wall on one of his rambles, and lured me with tales of glorious first ascents. Thus bedazzled, I threw a drilling kit in the top of the pack and we were off.
After warming up on "Ohmer's Odyssey", the classic 5.9 crack splitting the middle of the wall, we got to work on "Nuts and Volts" to the left. An initial right-facing flake/arch took a couple of nuts, then petered out. Near vertical face-climbing on pockets and pebbles lead onward, but lacked anything remotely suitable for a free drilling stance. Out came the hook, followed by the drill and the hammer. Fortyfive minutes later the first bolt was in, and a couple hours after that the hard labor was finished and I had blisters on both hands.
After a quick trip to the deck and a drink of water, we pulled the rope, then relead the pitch to make it "official". We wrapped up the day by climbing everything else on the wall. A week later I ordered my Hilti and the world has never been the same.
Photos
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