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Nuts and Bolts
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Dumb Nuts 
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Nuts and Bolts 

Nuts and Bolts 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Summer ,Fall
Page Views: 641
Submitted By: Robert 560 on Jun 7, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

Start at the center of the wall. Climb to the first bolt of No Nuts then angle left over the small roof. Continue up the face aiming for the slot in the roof above. Climb through the slot to your choice of bolts on the right or the left. This is a fun lead or can be top roped.


Location 

Start at center of wall


Protection 

Standard Rack



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By wasatch-mtn-man
May 13, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Kind of sketchy pro at the bottom, better at the top. PG-13 I would say

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jul 2, 2013

Definitely PG13 at the bottom. The move before the roof does not protect at all. You're protected by the bolt already 3 feet below you even before you pull the roof. About 2-3 feet above the roof, you can finally protect. This is the only protection I could find until I traversed left over to the main crack (about 10-15ft left and up). So within a 40-50ft section, I had merely clipped a bolt, and placed 2 pieces of gear on pretty strenuous terrain! A tough but enjoyable climb though, if you're good at the grade.

By Shawn S. Barker
Jul 15, 2013

That crack up the left is incredibly easy to protect. Tons of good spots for placement. The bottom half can be protected with a medium sized cam or two if you wanted (recommended).