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 ADVANCED
Pommel (South Face)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boom Boom Room T 
More Hustle Than Muscle T 
Nuts and Bolts T 

Nuts and Bolts 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bart Groendycke & Todd Alston, 1990
Page Views: 360
Submitted By: chrisp on Jan 12, 2008

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Description 

This is a steep bolted arete at the top of Saddle Rocks. The rock is mostly good compared to the routes down the hill from this one.

The bolts are in the right place to protect all the difficult moves but there is a significant runnout from the last bolt to the summit- very exciting! Not recommended if you are just breaking into 5.9 slab routes though- possibly a little more difficult than 5.9.


Location 

Atop saddle rocks


Protection 

7 bolts. The last bolt is a rusty flexing 1/4" button head. Run it out from this bolt to the top of the formation. I set a natural anchor using slings on horns.

From the right side of the formation you can down climb a wide crack to an anchor and rap down to the gully with a 60m rope.



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By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jan 13, 2008

I believe the route you are describing is Nuts and Bolts (also 5.9 R). Both routes are on the southwest face of the Pommel formation on Saddle Rocks. Nuts and Bolts is the arete route and Boom Boom Room is the face climb to the right, zig-zagging up the main face, with both routes sharing the final bolt of Boom Boom Room before the slab to the top of the Pommel.

By Reed Fee
From: White Salmon WA
Feb 27, 2009

Im pretty sure I did this route in Nov. of 2000 after doing walk on the wild side. That runout at the top was pretty scary. I remember having to rap from a horn with no slings which was pretty hard on my rope when we pulled it. How long have the anchors been there?

By BRegan
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 7, 2010

The look of this arete easily persuaded me to climb the route (Dec. 2009). Especially with the new, fat, well-spaced bolts running up it. Little did I know, because you I couldn't see them from the base, the bolts towards the top HAVEN'T been replaced. The crux, for me, was right around the crappiest bolt. Thanks to whomever started the process of replacing the bolts, please continue.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 7, 2010

Actually none of the bolts on this route have been replaced as it was established with 3/8" bolts, however it does join Boom Boom Room at it's last bolt (1/4") for a shared finish. The lower 3 bolts on BBR have been upgraded fortunately.