|Cap Rock - North Face
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BETA PHOTO: "Nutcracker".
Photo by Blitzo.
This climbs a crack to a chimney about 20' right of "Event Horizon".
Ten year old Emil on the lower portion of Nutcrack...
Anne Carrier leading Nutcracker.
Anne setting up a belay for my 10 year old son Emi...
Shannon leading Nutcracker.
Dec 9, 2010
No way this is 5.2. 5.5 easily.
A variation is the "Birthing Canal". Go to the back of the cave at the top chimney and climb straight up. Don't try this if you aren't skinny.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Mar 12, 2011
Excellent beginner climb with my 10 year old son; varied in nature and not too hard. Short but fun. By the way, I also agree with Doug99 about the grade--a bit stiffer than a 5.2 on the lower portion of the route. Maybe not 5.5, but at least 5.4.
|By Joseph Stover|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 6, 2011
A C4 #6 can be slid up the wide crack at the top for a ways (but the rock walls of the crack are a bit grungy). I thought the crux was the short section just before gaining the traverse crack to the ledge below the wide crack. The wide crack was tricky and more of a mind game, but the holds were there for the most part. The lower section is easy and fun, great for a novice leader to climb, place pro, and downclimb if they have a more experienced partner to climb up it afterward and evaluate their gear and finish out the climb.
|By Mary Moser|
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.5 PG13
The first half of the climb was a really nice crack and the traverse was fun too. However, this climb is definitely harder than 5.2 and the chimney section above may be scary for a beginner due to the lack of pro. My friend Shannon did an excellent job keeping her head about her as she ran out the chimney. She did use the equivalent of a #5 Camalot at the start of the chimney, but above that there was no more pro.
Apr 2, 2013
Lol consensus is spot on, took my girlfriend on all the begginer routes and trashcan so I got a solid feel for lower grades, soloed this behind someone cleaning it and we both agree 5.3 is solid.