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Cap Rock - North Face
BLACK DIAMOND C4 Camalot, # 3

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Routes Sorted
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Event Horizon 
False Lieback 
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Horror-zontal Terror-verse 
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Nutcracker 
Retirement 
Space Odyssey 

Nutcracker 

5.2

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.3 [details]
FA: Rob Stahl, Dave Stahl, John Wolfe & Mona Wolfe, March 1971
Submitted By: Blitzo on May 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: "Nutcracker".
Photo by Blitzo.


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Description 

This climbs a crack to a chimney about 20' right of "Event Horizon".


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Nutcracker Slideshow Add Photo
Ten year old Emil on the lower portion of Nutcracker.

Ten year old Emil on the lower portion of Nutcrack...

Anne Carrier leading Nutcracker.

Anne Carrier leading Nutcracker.

Anne setting up a belay for my 10 year old son Emil to follow.

Anne setting up a belay for my 10 year old son Emi...

Shannon leading Nutcracker.

Shannon leading Nutcracker.


Comments on Nutcracker Add Comment
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By Doug99
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.5

No way this is 5.2. 5.5 easily.

A variation is the "Birthing Canal". Go to the back of the cave at the top chimney and climb straight up. Don't try this if you aren't skinny.

By Rodger Raubach
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.4

Excellent beginner climb with my 10 year old son; varied in nature and not too hard. Short but fun. By the way, I also agree with Doug99 about the grade--a bit stiffer than a 5.2 on the lower portion of the route. Maybe not 5.5, but at least 5.4.

By Joseph Stover
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 6, 2011
rating: 5.7

A C4 #6 can be slid up the wide crack at the top for a ways (but the rock walls of the crack are a bit grungy). I thought the crux was the short section just before gaining the traverse crack to the ledge below the wide crack. The wide crack was tricky and more of a mind game, but the holds were there for the most part. The lower section is easy and fun, great for a novice leader to climb, place pro, and downclimb if they have a more experienced partner to climb up it afterward and evaluate their gear and finish out the climb.

By Mary Moser
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.5 PG13

The first half of the climb was a really nice crack and the traverse was fun too. However, this climb is definitely harder than 5.2 and the chimney section above may be scary for a beginner due to the lack of pro. My friend Shannon did an excellent job keeping her head about her as she ran out the chimney. She did use the equivalent of a #5 Camalot at the start of the chimney, but above that there was no more pro.

By verticalbound
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.2

Lol consensus is spot on, took my girlfriend on all the begginer routes and trashcan so I got a solid feel for lower grades, soloed this behind someone cleaning it and we both agree 5.3 is solid.