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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Stewart and Tim Burke 1971
Page Views: 1,361
Submitted By: mschlocker on Aug 26, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Nutcracker (left) and Gallwas Crack (right). Both...
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Crack starts thin and gets wider. Very slippery rock the whole way up the right facing dihedral. At the top a small traverse right is needed to gain the chimney which is shared with The Gallwas Crack. The word that best describes this route is "athletic". It will literally take your breath away.


Main wall, starts up on a ledge near the top of the left climbers' loop trail. Starts on the right side of this ledge, left of The Gallwas Crack.


Small to possibly large (for the middle third).

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By Jesse Davidson
From: san diego, ca
May 4, 2008


By GregH
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 21, 2009

this route is covered in s@#$ not fun

By Graham Roff
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Quite sustained and seemed sandbagged at 5.9. But it could have been all the bird crap greasing up the jams and my lungs I guess.

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Mar 21, 2010

Oh cmon, everyone use to get dirty as a kid and probably thought it was the cat's pajamas' at the time. I just climbed through the dirt, guano and most particularly difficult, the green algae slime that coated Gallwas Crack. At first I was like, oh I can't do this its dirty, but I was there they were the climbs I wanted to knock out, and turns out I had a blast. Nutcracker and Gallwas are probably my two favorite climbs in the park as it stands. Can't wait to give them a run towards the summer when it dries out a bit, and maybe my traffic alone will reduce the dirt and dust.

By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2011

As posted on the MG Traverse comments section-

I was following the MG Traverse today and one of the three bird littered blocks at the top of Nutcracker, the nice one you can hug, broke free while i was hugging it (probably about the size of my upper torso or so?). Thankfully it wasn't while climbing Nutcracker, it would have been a horrible fall and incredibly dangerous (likely deadly if hit head-on) for the belayer.

Careful with the sheltered bird-harboring rocks at MG!

By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Jan 7, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

classic gorge 5.9. you can avoid the guano if you watch what youre doing

By Cody O
From: San Diego
Jun 21, 2013

Currently has a swallow nest in the crack near the start, just a heads up.