Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation
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Marc just after the crux.
Twenty feet to the right of the standard start for Nutcracker is a beautiful finger crack that ascends the blank wall to a tree (110'). After the tree ascend another 80 feet to join the original route at the start of the fourth pitch.
The start of the variation takes you up 15 feet of an unprotected slab. Then sink a couple small cams and climb up the smooth 5.9 face. After 20 feet the climbing eases.
Twenty feet to the right of the original Nutcracker start.
Cams from .25 to 2 inches.
|Photos of Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation Slideshow
my dad following the 5.9 variation...
|Comments on Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
May 26, 2007
If using this start, you can do the route in 4 pitches with a 70m rope.
P1. Go to the second large tree for the first belay (shade, and a nice perch) ~ 60m.
P2. Go to a gear belay just below the roof. Be mindful of ropedrag. 70m rope stretcher.
P3. Go to a gear belay about 20' below the mantle, at a stance on a dike where there used to be bolts.
P4. Over the top.
The first pitch is very slick, especially the first couple of moves, and a little reachy.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 25, 2007
i managed to do it in 4 pitches with a 60m rope but i had a pretty uncomfortable belay above the bulge on the slab....
great route... this start is so clean and nice, just do it...
|By Marc H|
From: Lafayette, CO
Nov 24, 2007
It's my understanding most people start this variation on the low-angle face directly below the crack. To suggest another variation: Start on the left of the face and follow the seam (that eventually turns into the crack) in from the left. It's probably goes at about 5.9, no protection. It's aesthetic and enjoyable, IMO.
|By Tevis Blom|
May 25, 2008
Beware that if you take this alternate (and polished) start to Nutcracker, you may be passed by parties on the real (and much easier) 1st pitch. This is what has kept me from climbing the rest of the route, got to the first belay to find that some Frenchies had already nabbed the belay, we bailed off because we didn't want to wait behind them (after they obviously scrambled to beat us to the belay).
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
Oct 17, 2011
This is a great single pitch to do on its own...
|By Mark P Thomas|
Dec 12, 2011
The easiest way to get to the base of the crack is to go up some ledges on the right (5.5).
|By Mark P Thomas|
Dec 24, 2011
According to the Reid guide this variation is actually a route called "Dynamic Doubles" with FA credit given to Dan & Sue McDevitt in 1991.
Feb 26, 2012
description. ends at start of third pitch not 4th.
|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
Jan 28, 2013
Dynamic Doubles is the bolted line right of the 5.9 crack, touches the crack line at the second tree (in the 1994 Reid/Meyers topo) then heads out right again.
The 5.9 crack var is shown on the 1982 Meyers guide (the future Dynamics Duo line is shown as a dotted TR line). Linda and I did this crack var in 1983, passed a couple parties on the first pitches and a line at the bottom! I remember it to be kind of like the slammer parts of Senrenity Crack, just a tick easier.
Jan 28, 2013
Took the direct start and got stuck behind a party of three, who kept taking and setting intermediate belays.
This route COOKS in the summer. My partner and I had blisters on our toes from the heat absorbed by the rock.