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Qual Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Nut Job 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,892
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Climber Johnny Clark. First outdoor lead. Pink poi...

Description 

This is in my opinion the best line on the warmup wall. Follow the obvious crack line in the center of the wall through jugs, and a few wee jams out great rock. One bolt up high.


Location 

Warm up wall, Center


Protection 

The protection looks good, but this rock is always suspect. If there is any question about wether or not you could lead this on gear, just don't. Easily toproped from anchors on right...



Photos of Nut Job Slideshow Add Photo
About to enter the crux section.  Fun route.  Beautiful fall day, Sept. 09.
About to enter the crux section. Fun route. Beau...
Roger Frivalt climbing.
Roger Frivalt climbing.
warm up wall with Nut Job right in the middle <br />
BETA PHOTO: warm up wall with Nut Job right in the middle
Comments on Nut Job Add Comment
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By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Apr 26, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

As of today the bolt at the top is still only finger tight.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2007

AKA- The Teabagger

By Tradoholic
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Best route on this side off the wall. I sewed it up with one set of BD nuts. Placements were generally good but the rock is not bullet hard on this one. There is a distinct crux in the middle and that is where the pro is hardest.

Called "Nutcracker" in Huston's topo.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2009

Next person on this route please bring a small crescent wrench and tighten the nut on the bolt. Otherwise I'll do it next time I'm out there. It's finger tight right now.

By Dylan B.
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

The nut is still only finger-tight. Next person to climb this, please bring a wrench and tighten it up.