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h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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Arrow T 
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Last Will Be First, The T 
Limelight T 
Lost and Found T 
Man's Quest for Flight T 
Moby Dick T 
Modern Times T 
Moonlight T 
No Glow T 
Nurse's Aid T 
Proctor Silex T 
Proctoscope T 
Red Pillar T 
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Smilin' the Hard Way T 
Steep Hikin' T 
Step Lively T 
Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
Three Vultures T 
Traverse of the Clods T 
Twilight Zone T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

Nurse's Aid 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rich Romano & Russ Raffa - 1977
Page Views: 4,709
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

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Jeff Arliss on the upper half of the first pitch, ...

Description 

Nurse's Aid in a nice climb that launches up the wall just left of Feast of Fools. The face below the roof is challenging -- there is a scary section in an orange plaque of rock that is very difficult to protect. From here, step left and continue up and through the massive roof. Considering Gunks grades, I found this roof to be quite reasonable at 5.10c. The pitch stops at the GT Ledge.

The second pitch continues up a left-facing overhanging corner system, but loose rock and lackluster climbing detract from its quality.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Nurse's Aid Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff approaching the roof on pitch 1.
Jeff approaching the roof on pitch 1.
Unknown climber getting over the crux horizontal c...
Unknown climber getting over the crux horizontal c...
Casey pulling around the last crux with some aweso...
Casey pulling around the last crux with some aweso...
Unknown climber now in the meat of the crux horizo...
Unknown climber now in the meat of the crux horizo...
Looking back in the handcrack traverse at the top ...
Looking back in the handcrack traverse at the top ...
Unknown climber getting into the crux horizontal c...
Unknown climber getting into the crux horizontal c...
Looking down from the crux of P2.
Looking down from the crux of P2.
Unknown climber belaying his second, who is just a...
Unknown climber belaying his second, who is just a...
The second pitch, with the traverse at the top vis...
The second pitch, with the traverse at the top vis...

Comments on Nurse's Aid Add Comment
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By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Great 2nd pitch. Do not miss it. Stay on the overhanging cracks 3-5 feet right of the easy corner. Fantastic finish (Blue cam helpful to protect the traverse)
By Denis O'Connor
Aug 6, 2009

I agree, Paul. I think Josh might have traversed off the second pitch a little early, underneath the great crack, without knowing what he was missing. It would be easy to do because it's invisible from below and an unlikely line. I can't imagine anyone would describe that traverse as "lackluster."
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 13, 2009

Ok, I seconded this climb and found the transition from the little corner out onto the traverse quite hard. I am short and felt like it was a HUGE reach to get around the nose on the traverse itself. Once there, I felt reasonably secure, as I did the traverse in frog position. I had my hands on the horizontal and my feet on the wall like a frog. Slow moving, but, it worked.

To me, this was the scariest climb I have ever done. I felt like i was going to wing off into space. I knew that if I fell on the traverse, I would never get back on the wall.
By Spiro
Jun 19, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I have specific gear beta if anyone wants it for the run out section.
By stredna
From: PA
Jul 23, 2010

Don't Read if you dont want just a hint of beta; anyone climbing with a "standard Gunks Rack" can protect the scary part!
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Solid 10c

In spite of being told I could protect the blank face below the roof, I have no idea how you would place any decent gear at the runout section (and believe me I tried). Sure you can get a flared cam with a couple lobes scratching the sides of hold you need to do the move or you can just run it out through the techie face to the jug (why even bother with gear?) - keep your eyes peeled here for hidden crimps just before the jug and hidden feet to your side. DO NOT FORGET to bring purple/grey metolius and/or purple/blue alien (i.e. tiny gear) to protect the traverse just after the techie runout - that was a "Thank God" moment for me and helped me keep my cool to send the route.
By Pete Wilk
May 21, 2012

Awesome route from bottom to top. The first pitch is great stuff pulling through the roofs.

The second pitch was my first 5.10a at the Gunks and wow! The technical crux of the pitch for me was 15 feet or so below the hand traverse, but the traverse was definitely the mental crux. A number 2 camalot was the largest piece I had, which still worked but I really would have appreciated a #3. It didn't really have any chalk on the second pitch so I was constantly wondering if I was on route and if there would be holds/pro around the next corner.
By matthew nauman
From: cohoes
May 5, 2014

The 1st pitch seemed easy for a 5.10c but the 2nd pitch seemed much harder then the 1st for me. I don't know how that hand traverse is only 5.10a if the 1st pitch is 5.10c.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 6, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I climbed this onsight and without any gear beta... Provided for a pretty intense experience! There is a large band of crap rock below the runout face on the first pitch. When this inevitably falls off the wall I hope nobody is around! I found the left side of the shit band to be the most stable. Used a sideways .4 in the slot a foot above the finger lock to protect the face: three good lobes and one flaring. Roof is mostly big holds with a reachy crux bump off a crimper rail.

Pitch two is a little tricky in terms of route finding. Basically go up some overhanging corner systems above the belay, following some cracks to a rectangular notch with a wedged block. Make an awkward move up into the notch and then move straight up to a stance at the beginning of the traverse. A #3 is ideal and you can bump it out around the corner to protect you and your second. If you have big enough hands/arms you can get bomber jams as you stand up to make the froggy mantle. Really fun climb with good enough gear and rests to be pretty reasonable at the grade.