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Nurse Rachet 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Dustin B on Dec 8, 2008
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Description 

Wide hands to fists in a shallow corner.


Location 

Route is on the left side of Cliffs of Insanity, a few hundred feet left of 'Puzzle Factory'. Plaque at base said 11- but seems a bit soft at that grade.


Protection 

2 #3 camalots, 4 or 5 #4 camalots, bolted anchor.



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By slim
Administrator
Dec 8, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

yeah, the grade seems way off on this one. our group thought it was in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. when i did this route, there was an old verve chalkbag back in the upper chimney that i bootied. kind of wierd. fun route though.

By Alex Garhart
From: the winter wasteland
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Awesome route, mostly #4 friends but 0.5 and 0.75 C4 keep you from running out the low angle 5 easy at the top. With the many rests on small ledges 5.9 or 9+ seems fair.

By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Nov 7, 2009

I agree, .9 maybe a + if your not great at the wide-ish stuff.I just put the 11- cause thats what the book and the plaque have.

By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

This is a little harder than .9 for the Creek. It's not 11- either. 5.10. Some good rests but harder than any 10- I've ever done at the creek.

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Excellent route but it felt like 5.10 to me. Maybe as I am small. I surely was fighting the whole way up. Also it is BD 3.5 forever. Too big for BD 3 and too small for new #4. Perfect fists for me but it did work me over.