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East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)
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Nurn's Romp 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Evans and Mike Raab, November 1974
Page Views: 3,135
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 11, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (94)
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Eric/Kenan leading Nurn's Romp in February 2013

Description 

This striking crack offers positive jams and excellent gear making it a recommended route of the area. Scramble to the base and climb a flake to a ledge and then up a left-facing corner to reach the crack proper which pulls a small roof on good holds and then continues up a nice hand crack to finish with a lower-angled, slightly wider finish.

The descent can be done by traversing right to anchors atop Exorcist or via a memorable leap across the chasm just left of the climb's finish.

Location 

The attractive crack 50' left of Exorcist.

Protection 

Gear to 3" with emphasis on hand-sized pieces


Photos of Nurn's Romp Slideshow Add Photo
Lisa Pritchett leading the upper section of Nurn's...
Lisa Pritchett leading the upper section of Nurn's...
Dan 2-13-10 Dan and Bennet click on my name there ...
Dan 2-13-10 Dan and Bennet click on my name there ...
Lisa Pritchet on Nurn's Romp 5.8
Lisa Pritchet on Nurn's Romp 5.8
Coming around the roof. Photographer:  Mike Hack
Coming around the roof. Photographer: Mike Hack
Christa Cline about to step right onto the face by...
Christa Cline about to step right onto the face by...
Bennet 2-13-10 Dan and Bennet click on my name the...
Bennet 2-13-10 Dan and Bennet click on my name the...
Nurns Romp
BETA PHOTO: Nurns Romp

Comments on Nurn's Romp Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 18, 2014
By Murf
Nov 15, 2002

The rap from Exorcist leaves you about 100 feet from your packs...
By David Evans
Jan 22, 2003

Here is the story behind the route name. Mike Raab and I were best friends in High School (Corona Del Mar H.S.) and called each other Nurn. We thought the route was going to be harder than it was, hence, it was a romp! This route was one of our first F.A.'s.
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 28, 2003

Climbed this yesterday, 4/27/03. a fun climb with great jams.
By Dynomight510
Sep 9, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found the start to be the crux and involves a series of moves. stemming and face climbing techniques are helpful. The short move right off the ledge to get to the crack is exposed but easier than 5.8. The pro on this section, the traverse, is solid just not in the best position. Sling it well. The crack is stellar and also easier than 5.8.

Good quality and a must do
By Ryan Avery
Mar 9, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I have leapt the chasm. Not recommended.

I would say this has maybe two 5.8 moves at the roof and then a rather short 5.6/5.7 crack. Fun route with good moves.
By Dietrich Walker
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 23, 2007

amazing route...the leap over the chasm is scary as hell, but totally doable. just don't slip when you make the jump. a great adrenaline rush to finish off a great climb.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are basically 4 ways off this thing, and jumping the gap is the last of the 4 I would choose. In order of most preferred:

1. Go right to the Exorcist rap.
2. Go around the left (north) side of the summit blocks past the gap jump and on around to the east face, continue south along the east face for a few feet to where there is a rap station.
3. Go south toward the Exorcist, squeeze through the crack/gap in the summit blocks over to the east face, grovel/crawl back north a bit in a horzontal break to the same rap station in #2 above.
4. Jump the gap o' death.

Fun, solid route. Recommended.
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Very fun climb, perhaps thats why there always people climbing it.
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Apr 14, 2008

What is the length of the Exorcist rappel? Are two ropes needed or can one 60 meter rope do the trick?
By Ben H
Mar 11, 2010

I did the jump of death descent option, and miss judged it a bit. I really should have had at least a step or two running start to clear the gap with a better margin. Anyway, a rap off of the Exorcist anchors is very accessible, and while it may not be quit as exciting, its definitely a safer option.
By JSH
Administrator
Apr 28, 2010

One rope will get you down from the Exorcist anchors, Brian.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Oct 10, 2011

The descent from this climb as described in the Vogel guide book is... interesting. The jump shown in the book is about 8 feet. I didn't have the balls.

We discovered a bunch of bail slings on the opposite face of the rock about 20 feet towards the Exorcist that come in handy. The bail slings will take you down to an area you can scramble down from.

This climb has some great moves, especially at the bottom. Highly recommend for the area!
By Canon
Jan 14, 2012

Very good route. Getting off the deck is the crux. The roof protects well. Dont think I used anything bigger than a #2 Camalot. For the descent, we walked over to the Exorcist bolts and set a TR, then rapped. Piece of cake, and a 60m gets you all the way down to a short, easy scramble.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 16, 2012

By plantmandan
From: Brighton, Co
Oct 18, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A very good route. There are two distinct crux moves, both early in the route. The hand crack at the top is cruiser.