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a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rich Ross 1975
Page Views: 1,107
Submitted By: monk on Jun 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Matt on lead

Description 

A really fun straight-up climb on the right side of the Gerdie Block. There are four sections to the climb: a ten-ish move to get established on the face, a nine-ish move on a micronut to get to the crux, a fun crux that may be done statically or dynamically, and easy-ish climbing to the top. I rated this as 10+, but the new Grey Dick has this as 11-.

Location 

Start on the right edge of the main face of the Gerdie Block, just right of Dirty Gerdie, and climb straight up the thin crack. The arete is off.

Protection 

Take micronuts (mandatory, imho), & a 3.5 camalot (3 will do, but 3.5 is bomber). The crux is well protected.

There is a 9 move before the crux that is protected by a good micronut. This move is harder if short & if the nut blows you may be in ground fall range.


Photos of Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) Slideshow Add Photo
getting gear just before the crux is muy importante
getting gear just before the crux is muy important...

Comments on Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) Add Comment
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By counch
Jul 26, 2010

Whether it is an 11(a) or 10(d) is negligible and depends on who you talk to and how tall you are. It was my first onsight at this level and it lived up to its name as it had me shamelessly grunting and whining the first 30ft. Itís very balancy and the crux involves a mono; had I known this before I was already climbing I would have taped up my finger. After the crux itís 7ish climbing to the top.