Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich)
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Number One Enemy. Aug '14.
A very good climb, somehow overlooked for a long time. This is a break from the good, but standard fare of the area, climbing up a seam of intermittent cracks on strange cling and side-pulls rather than pockets and edges. The change is a good one, producing a great climb.
Step up and left and pass a single bolt, climbing upwards and slightly left past 2 more bolts. Between bolts #2 and #3 head strongly left into a shallow intermittent crack and finally some pockets, pass several more bolts. Climb more or less directly up this crack feature for 50+ more feet to a good anchor.
This route is around onto the E/NE-facing sidewall of Slavery Wall and climbs up and left into a very apparent finger-crack like system, onward on the right past a trail of darker stone, and to a fixed anchor.
8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Number One Enemy and Shake Your Money Maker
|Comments on Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich)
Sep 15, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
There is a chockstone jug in the crack near the last bolt that was marked with an "X" when I climbed this. I didn't test it, but assumed the worst and avoided it entirely (hands and feet). It seems like sort of a "thank god" jug near the end of the route, but if you skip this hold (or if it pulls out in the future) the top half is definitely more sustained. Be careful!