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An amazing route in an amazing position. Unique climbing for Index - steep face climbing on solid quartzite holds reminiscent of the Gunks. But just look around - the Gunks don't have air and views quite like this...
Rappel in. From the 2 bolt anchor at the base of the route, climb up the corner crack through nice, smooth granite and up over a tricky bulge. From here, the character of the climb changes considerably as you leave the smooth granite and begin working your way up a steep wall through a sea of quartzite holds, placing gear where available.
Although this climb lies at the upper extent of the Blues Cliff, it is perhaps best combined with routes at the Mid Wall. Use the Mid Wall approach to get to the route. At the point where the Mid Wall trail comes to the edge of the cliff and there is a nice viewpoint with a great rock to sit on, you will notice chains directly below (these are the anchors for Starfish (5.9) ).
To find the anchors for #9, continue a few more feet along the trail to the top of the stairs and the tree that has fallen on them. At this point, carefully walk left along the ledge (exposed) to the anchors. Rappel in to a ledge with a few trees and a 2 bolt anchor.
Standard rack to 2 or 3 inches. There is one protection bolt on the route. 70 meter rope needed to rappel into the route - otherwise you'll need two ropes to rappel in.
Typical holds on Starfish and #9.
|By Hans Miller|
Jun 15, 2009
It should be noted that the route name as I originally saw it was written as #9, however MP would not let me use the # symbol in the title of the route.
Also, I don't know iclimb's real name - if anyone does, please drop a note and I'll fix this description.
From: Las Vegas
Jun 15, 2009
These are great climbs and very unique for Index. The bulge at the bottom feels hard/awkward for 10a.
Feb 10, 2012
Chris Henson did the FA, I believe.