Number 8 Beartrap
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Number 8 Beartrap.
This is a wild, worthwhile climb that probably never gets done. This one's a tight squeeze!
Climb easy chimneys to the right and uphill of Southeast Pillar's start. Look for the amazing hanging chimney above.
Rope-up on a big ledge and climb into a overhanging crack to gain the chimney proper. There is a crack on the inside of the chimney (Wolf's Tooth style), so if you are super skinny you can follow this all the way up the middle using small to midrange cams and nuts for great pro. However, if you're anything bigger than super-skinny, you'll have to go either right or left to the outside of the chimney. I went right and found scattered pro and used one #4 tube chock. I'm not sure what the story is if you go left.
Perhaps the best option is to be super-skinny and wear a swami for a harness.
After you extract yourself from the chimney there is a nice ledge to belay from. It's possible to rap from here or continue up P.2 of Southeast Pillar, another chimney.
This is around to the right of the main Checkerboard face. Walk past the start of Southeast pillar and look up to your left.
#0 TCU to #3 Camalot. If you anticipate having to move to the outside of the chimney you may want to bring a few tube chocks.
Number 8 Beartrap, 5.8+.
Cursing Kimball on Number 8 Beartrap.