Number 1 Super Guy 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Gonzales, Dave Dangle, Eric Harp, 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001 |
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Climber: Tyler Platte Photographer: Steve Filmer
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Description What an amazing roof! This has the potential to be a complete sandbag at 11a, you are forewarned! It is difficult to find. It is in the north end of the north wall of the Bank. Between Quarry Wall (Dust Lust, A Sharp) and #1 Super Guy, there are low cliffs with few lines then a gully. The next cliff band has #1 Super Guy on the far left side climbing the prominent roof, but the approach is from the road up to the right side of this wall (several routes here: Starving Hippies, 11b/c; Incredible Weather, 12c/d; and Flesh Tuxedo, 11b, among others) then hike left along the cliff to find the line. For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy, slightly loose, stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy, fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof. Sandbagged with bad beta, I climbed this the hard way with the most tremendous reach I've ever made. There is an easier way, but I'll let you puzzle this one out yourself.
Protection 5 bolts? or so to 2 bolt anchor. A couple medium nuts will protect the start.
Climber: Tyler Platte Photographer: Steve Filmer.
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Looks like fun!
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Mantle, mantle, mantle.
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Making the clip the Super Guy way.
Photo by Jason...
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Another super guy on a super route.
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The easier way to clip the bolt. Fun route.
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Mark cuts loose on the big roof of #1 Superg...
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Campus move to horn.
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Clipping the anchors.
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Yeah...I gotta super guy photo, too.
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Hanging out on Super Guy.
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BETA PHOTO: The route in its entirety.
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Close up of the roof move.
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Number 1 Super Bunny runs it out and sends the roo...
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Jake doing a hero clip.
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Climber: Matt Bruton.
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.
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Zach feet on Number 1 Super Guy.
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Hanging out with the Super Guy.
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| Comments on Number 1 Super Guy |
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By Lawrence Stuemke
Feb 27, 2002
| What do you mean, Jesse - bad beta for #1 Super Guy! If you want to escape the roof to the left well OK - but what's the point when you have a awesome roof, a good finger lock, and a bolt at your waist when you make the reach to pull this mini-classic roof! |
By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| This climb is awesome. The section down low is 5.7, and the rock is better than it looks. Just choose your holds wisely and you'll be fine. What makes this route classic and unique for Shelf is the completely horizontal roof. The moves on this thing will make your butt pucker, and you may feel a little faint after clipping the bolt above the roof. It's not often you get to do a one-arm dangling clip at Shelf! |
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| Awesome climb. The gear is straightforward, and the 2nd half of the climb is superb. Get on this route - so much fun on the super hero jugs! |
By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 14, 2013
| A MUST DO. Soft 11a if you're comfortable on 11s and 12s, but it is an ulta-classic and easily the best route at the Piggy Bank! |
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