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The Bank
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Unsorted Routes:

Number 1 Super Guy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Gonzales, Dave Dangle, Eric Harp, 1988
Page Views: 5,640
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Jake doing a hero clip.

Description 

What an amazing roof! This has the potential to be a complete sandbag at 11a, you are forewarned!

For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy, slightly loose, stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy, fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof. Sandbagged with bad beta, I climbed this the hard way with the most tremendous reach I've ever made. There is an easier way, but I'll let you puzzle this one out yourself.


Location 

It is difficult to find. It is in the north end of the north wall of the Bank. Between Quarry Wall (Dust Lust, A Sharp) and #1 Super Guy, there are low cliffs with few lines then a gully. The next cliff band has #1 Super Guy on the far left side climbing the prominent roof, but the approach is from the road up to the right side of this wall (several routes here: Starving Hippies, 11b/c; Incredible Weather, 12c/d; and Flesh Tuxedo, 11b, among others) then hike left along the cliff to find the line.


Protection 

5 bolts? or so to 2 bolt anchor. A couple medium nuts will protect the start.



Photos of Number 1 Super Guy Slideshow Add Photo
Mark cuts loose on the big roof of #1 Superguy!
Mark cuts loose on the big roof of #1 Superg...
Climber: Matt Bruton. <br />Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.
Climber: Matt Bruton.
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.
Another super guy on a super route.
Another super guy on a super route.
Making the clip the Super Guy way. <br /> <br />Photo by Jason G. Williams.
Making the clip the Super Guy way.

Photo by Jason...
Hanging out with the Super Guy.
Hanging out with the Super Guy.
The route in its entirety.
BETA PHOTO: The route in its entirety.
The easier way to clip the bolt.  Fun route.
The easier way to clip the bolt. Fun route.
Mantle, mantle, mantle.
Mantle, mantle, mantle.
Number 1 Super Bunny runs it out and sends the roof!
Number 1 Super Bunny runs it out and sends the roo...
Looks like fun!
Looks like fun!
Hanging out on Super Guy.
Hanging out on Super Guy.
Climber: Tyler Platte. <br /> <br />Photographer: Steve Filmer.
Climber: Tyler Platte.

Photographer: Steve Filmer...
Close up of the roof move.
Close up of the roof move.
Yeah...I gotta super guy photo, too.
Yeah...I gotta super guy photo, too.
Climber: Tyler Platte Photographer: Steve Filmer.
Climber: Tyler Platte Photographer: Steve Filmer.
Campus move to horn.
Campus move to horn.
Zach feet on Number 1 Super Guy.
Zach feet on Number 1 Super Guy.
Clipping the anchors.
Clipping the anchors.
Comments on Number 1 Super Guy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lawrence Stuemke
Feb 27, 2002

What do you mean, Jesse - bad beta for #1 Super Guy! If you want to escape the roof to the left well OK - but what's the point when you have a awesome roof, a good finger lock, and a bolt at your waist when you make the reach to pull this mini-classic roof!

By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This climb is awesome. The section down low is 5.7, and the rock is better than it looks. Just choose your holds wisely and you'll be fine. What makes this route classic and unique for Shelf is the completely horizontal roof. The moves on this thing will make your butt pucker, and you may feel a little faint after clipping the bolt above the roof. It's not often you get to do a one-arm dangling clip at Shelf!

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Awesome climb. The gear is straightforward, and the 2nd half of the climb is superb. Get on this route - so much fun on the super hero jugs!

By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 14, 2013

A MUST DO. Soft 11a if you're comfortable on 11s and 12s, but it is an ulta-classic and easily the best route at the Piggy Bank!

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Oct 20, 2013

One of Piggy's greatest. Do. Jugs galore after the roof!

By Pink Thunder
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 5, 2014

Soft for 11a no way! Felt more like 11c. Regardless, super fun route. Never seen a roof like this at Shelf! And thanks for the bail biner, whoever left an industrial-strength locker underneath the roof. Woop, woop.