|1,867 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.8 [details]|
|FA: ||Some old school dogs.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring through fall.|
|Submitted By: ||Manky on Jan 17, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: The Nuggernaut follows the left-facing dihedral.
This is a nice, long moderate with excellent belay stances and fun, varied climbing. It is one of the more continuous lines in the area. An old pin was recently found about 750' up this climb at the bottom of a nice dihedral variation.
Route faces northeast, and follows giant, left-facing diherdral for the entire climb. Start at the bottom of the dihedral and get it on. To get down, find bolted anchor at the top of the tower on the south side. A combination of double and single rope rappels will drop you right back to your packs. Rap line is climbers left of route and alternates between bolted stations and natural anchors.
A double set of cams with one #4 Camalot plus nuts. Trad anchors for most belays. Rap off combination of bolts, nuts, and trees for descent.
Andy Albosta on the traverse pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Nuggernaut topo. By Ian Allison.
Oct 2, 2012
Really great for beginners to multi-pitch and trad. Straightforward route with the exception of the traverse left at the second pitch...which is pretty obvious now since you read it. Posted a short description and video here - takeslack.com/nuggernaut/.
|By Gary N|
From: Durango, CO
Apr 24, 2013
A fun route. I prefer this route over No Country For Old Men. The Nuggernaut offers what I believe to be a more direct line/route finding and more sustained climbing at about the 5.7-5.8 level. Five good pitches of more technical climbing vs. 3 pitches and some scrambling.
A little descent beta: follow cairns from the summit south-east-ish to a bolted rap anchor. Make one single rope rap to a large tree with webbing. From here, make a double rope rap to a small, singular tree with webbing. Another double rope rap will get you to a bolt and fixed nut (webbing/cord could use an update). From here, make a double rope rap to a large terrace with a two bolt anchor. One more double rope rap will get you to the base of the Nuggernaut.