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Elevation: 48 ft
GPS: 18.40919, -66.14117
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 222,396 total · 1,212/month
Shared By: Greg Pfeil on Feb 19, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Heliodor Jalba

Description Suggest change

Monagas (aka Nuevo Bayamón) is the main crag in Puerto Rico due to its location within the main urban area and the number and variety of routes.

Many parts of this area are shady all day long, some are even in cave-like areas. When I was there it wasn't very crowded. I only saw one other couple climbing all day. Sometimes people walk up from the park to look around, but just spectators.

The limestone rock is nice. A mix of english-muffin cragginess and smooth candle-dripping laybacks.

GUIDEBOOKS & DONATIONS: Please consider purchasing the downloadable guidebook from Aventuras Tierra Adentro. The money goes to route maintenance. It is available as a downloadable PDF file from the website or as a paper booklet if you visit the store in person:

https://goo.gl/maps/5BNETox8AmEmZyFt5  The owner of Aventuras Tierra Adentro is a cornerstone of the PR climbing community, and has developed and maintains many of the routes on the island.

If you would like to donate directly, you can send your donation by paypal to aventurastierradentro@gmail.com

Getting There Suggest change

The crags are in the park Julio Enrique Monagas in the municipality of Bayamón.

The park's current schedule has it closed on Mondays and Tuesdays (started in late 2023). It's not clear how long this restricted schedule will continue.

Coordinates for parking:
18.409135, -66.141252
https://goo.gl/maps/Yh7yZ4ukpAD2

Map of the hiking path that leads to the access trails for the crag:
https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118270135

Map of the crag, sectors, and access trails:
https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/117370114

PARKING:
The park charges a parking fee, currently $4, 7am to about 2pm, when the gate attendant goes home. After the park gate, cross the parking lot and follow the road to the right. Right after passing this parking lot, turn right, which will take you to a second parking lot, within sight, between playgrounds and gazebos. Park here. This map has it detailed quite clearly: https://osm.org/go/Y0SufmJ~j--?m=

HIKING:
From the parking lot, hike up the tar road that heads towards the woods. Pass under a rain shelter structure onto a thin and paved path. It will curve sharply to the right, past several mountain bike trails. Right after, you'll spot a cement post with a carabiner picture. Take the mountain bike trail that goes to the left and uphill from here. Keep your eyes and ears open for bicyclists. It's a mountain biking trail so move aside and don't force them to slow down; they have the right of way. As you hike up, keep right at the first junction and left at the second junction. When you come out into a clearing or open area, there’s another carabiner picture; keep hiking straight ahead and up. Pass the wooden benches, on your right.

ACCESS TRAILS:
At the uphill left bend of the road right after the wooden benches, you'll have the first of two access trails on your right. It takes you to the sectors El Elefante, El Bloque, El Mamón, and further away. If instead you follow the left bend in the road uphill, there is a second access trail on your right side that will take you to the sectors El Pasillo, La Escalera, and El Puente. Lastly, if you walk all the way up to the observation tower, there is an access trail in the back of the turn as you circle the tower, which leads to the Ground Zero sector.

Climbing When Rainy

Suggest change

The rainy season can be frustrating for climbing. Rain showers will pass by frequently and the ground will be muddy on some days (and slippery!) but small or moderate amounts of rain doesn't mean you have to stay away. There are various caverns or overhanging routes that can have you climbing during the rain or immediately after. Check out:

Pasillo - the go-to for rainy moments, the back half is protected from moderate amounts of rain and features routes from 5.8 to 5.11

Ground Zero - two caverns that stay dry in moderate rain

El Mamón (Original) - Except for the easy jugs up top, the routes are gently overhung and stay dry in light short rain.

Urticaria East - the route "Urticaria" is especially likely to stay dry after small amounts of rain and its neighboring routes will dry up shortly after. The ground may be muddy.

El Bloque - circle it from end to end and see which parts have stayed dry.

El Lado Oscuro - short overhanging wall

249 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Monagas (aka Nuevo Bayamón)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 29
Controversy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Mr. Long
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Zángano
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Me Cramer les Couilles
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 22
Dogmática
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 35
Neurosis
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 29
Horizontal Limit
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 21
Pindongo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Come Cojollo
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Twighlight Zone
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Over the hill
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 14
Ambos Tienen que Ceder
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 36
Chocolate Sky
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Shanghai Bombay
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
El viaje de Dante
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Controversy 01. Ground Zero > Outside Area
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mr. Long 01. Ground Zero > Outside Area
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Zángano 13. Lost World
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Me Cramer les Couilles 01. Ground Zero > Outside Area
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dogmática 07. El Mamón (Original)
 22
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Neurosis 02. El Pasillo
 35
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Horizontal Limit 02. El Pasillo
 29
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pindongo 07. El Mamón (Original)
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Come Cojollo 05. Las Nueve (El Pue…
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Twighlight Zone 02. El Pasillo
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Over the hill 12. Aventuras (Over t…
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Ambos Tienen que Ceder 02. El Pasillo
 14
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Chocolate Sky 05. Las Nueve (El Pue…
 36
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Shanghai Bombay 05. Las Nueve (El Pue…
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
El viaje de Dante 15. Dante
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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