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Nuclear Waste 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery & Randy Vogel, 1982
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jan 8, 2013

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Description 

Some 5.10- face climbing past a bolt (crux) on crunchy edges leads up and right to a crack. This crack is low angle and uninteresting, so place a piece or two and then bust out left into the steeper thin crack that splits the center of the buttress. Edges and the occasional fingerlock will see you through until the crack opens up higher. Belay from a 2 bolt anchor shared with Alf's Arete .11a.

Location 

Just right of the famous Alf's Arete .11a, starting on the right side of the large yucca at it's base. Rappel from 2 bolt anchor. Easily TR'ed after doing Alf's Arete.

Protection 

Bolt (3/8"), thin wires, maybe brass, and some gear to 2" perhaps.


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