With its crux down low, Nuclear Crayon is a bit of a one-move wonder for the grade. Nice face climbing with adequate protection.
Below the face left of Almost Seven, climb up a left-facing flake, then through a thin sequency section (crux); a bolt should protect the moves. Continue up the face on solid holds with small pro, finishing at the Almost Seven belay.
Starts about 20' left of Almost Seven; rap from fixed gear.
Small gear; one bolt.
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Our guidebook showed two bolts, but there is only one. The protection is barely adequate. There is definitely potential for a big fall in several places on the climb. This is a good TR after climbing Golden Earing, but hard to recommend as a lead climb unless very comfortable at the grade. The rappel is 100 feet.
|By Scott Gilliam|
From: Raleigh, NC
Feb 5, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
I think it is a bit of a misnomer to call it a one move wonder for the grade. The crux section is short, but harder than 10b. RE: gear, there is small gear (micronuts) available immediately after the crux. This is taxing to place and somewhat difficult to find, but will hold at least a small fall... or so I've heard. Many choose to skip it as the stance above is quite good. Higher above the crux, the protection is quite adequate. Keep your eyes peeled and don't skip placements. The climbing above the crux is 5.8-ish.
|By Neil Rankin|
From: Greensboro, NC
May 28, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
The crux section is harder than anything on Quaker State.
|By Emil Briggs|
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Have to agree with Neal. Quaker State is a lot more sustained but no really hard moves compared to the crux on Nuclear Crayon.