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Nubble Lighthouse
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Hueco Boulder, The 
Parking Lot Boulders  
Power Boulder, The 


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Nubble Lighthouse 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 43.1649, -70.5932 Map
Page Views: 6,923. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007

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Nubble Light - York Beach, Maine

Description 

This collection of seaside boulders is only enjoyable during low tide. Many enjoyable problems exist here, but watch out for the wet, slippery and sometimes treacherous landings. Most of the topouts are low (10ft-ish) and solid.

If you have never been to Nubble and live anywhere near there, if can be an enjoyable escape from Pawtuckaway bugs and the Pawtuckaway approach.


Getting There 

Drive along Route 1 north from NH, enter Maine, pass Long Sands beach and you will see the lighthouse on the oceanside. Take a smal side street east and park in the lighthouse parking area. This is apopular tourist spot.

The bouldering exists below the level of the parking lot; just walk towards the sea.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nubble Lighthouse:
Breakers    V1     Boulder, 12 feet   The Power Boulder
The Wave   V1     Boulder, 12 feet   The Power Boulder
Blunt   V2     Boulder, 5 feet   The Hueco Boulder
Pulse   V2     Boulder, 10 feet   Parking Lot Boulders
Skull Cap   V3     Boulder, 10 feet   The Hueco Boulder
Superman   V5     Boulder, 8 feet   Parking Lot Boulders
Skelletor    V5-6     Boulder, 12 feet   The Hueco Boulder
John's Arete    V6     Boulder, 15 feet   Parking Lot Boulders
Strong Johns Blunt   V6     Boulder, 6 feet   The Hueco Boulder
Blunt Traverse    V7     Boulder, 6 feet   The Hueco Boulder
Salty    V7     Boulder, 10 feet   The Power Boulder
Superman Direct (Project)   V9-10     Boulder, 8 feet   Parking Lot Boulders
Power Traverse    V10-     Boulder   The Power Boulder
Browse More Classics in Nubble Lighthouse

Featured Route For Nubble Lighthouse
Pulse

Pulse V2  ME : Nubble Lighthouse : Parking Lot Boulders
Sit start at an attractive, juggy ledge with a hand-heel match just to the right of Shorty. Make a tough reach to another great jug then scrape up to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME


Photos of Nubble Lighthouse Slideshow Add Photo
This is the face along the right side of the parking lot closest to the lighthouse. Im not sure which boulder it is but there are problems on it. Anyone know what they are???

BETA PHOTO: This is the face along the right side of the parki...

This is that same face but this photo is just to the right of the previous photo. A much easier climb, still not sure what it is.

BETA PHOTO: This is that same face but this photo is just to t...

Tyler climbing at Nubble Lighthouse. The scenery might be better than the rock.

Tyler climbing at Nubble Lighthouse. The scenery ...


Comments on Nubble Lighthouse Add Comment
Show which comments —
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 1, 2010

You may want to contact Peter Beal about this area. I'm pretty sure he did a lot of stuff in the area.

By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Feb 2, 2010

I was introduced to this area by Mike Veazy who has been really involved in the area. We have discussed many of the routes that are on here. Mike has almost every single boulder problem at the nubble posted on rockclimbing.com.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Feb 3, 2010

As nice as it would have been to say I did all the problems BITD, I have never climbed at Nubble

By burlap submariner
Feb 20, 2010

I met a dude there who was in his sixties and he said they had a circuit there to train for routes on cannon in the 70's.

By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Mar 15, 2011

does anyone know of any bouldering in Bangor,I am going up there next month for a tattoo show,anyone that can help.i am gonna check out this spot though.

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Aug 21, 2011

Don't expect much in the way of climbing when you come here. Pretty disappointing. Though being on the ocean is nice...

By Grady Jackson
From: Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Nov 2, 2011