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Nubble Lighthouse

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Hueco Boulder, The 
Parking Lot Boulders  
Power Boulder, The 

Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Nubble Lighthouse 


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Location: 43.1649, -70.5932 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,222
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007
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Tyler climbing at Nubble Lighthouse. The scenery ...

Description 

This collection of seaside boulders is only enjoyable during low tide. Many enjoyable problems exist here, but watch out for the wet, slippery and sometimes treacherous landings. Most of the topouts are low (10ft-ish) and solid.

If you have never been to Nubble and live anywhere near there, if can be an enjoyable escape from Pawtuckaway bugs and the Pawtuckaway approach.


Getting There 

Drive along Route 1 north from NH, enter Maine, pass Long Sands beach and you will see the lighthouse on the oceanside. Take a smal side street east and park in the lighthouse parking area. This is apopular tourist spot.

The bouldering exists below the level of the parking lot; just walk towards the sea.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',5],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Nubble Lighthouse
Pulse

Pulse V2 5+  ME : Nubble Lighthouse : Parking Lot Boulders
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Photos of Nubble Lighthouse Slideshow Add Photo
This is the face along the right side of the parking lot closest to the lighthouse. Im not sure which boulder it is but there are problems on it. Anyone know what they are???
BETA PHOTO: This is the face along the right side of the parki...
Nubble Light - York Beach, Maine
Nubble Light - York Beach, Maine
This is that same face but this photo is just to the right of the previous photo. A much easier climb, still not sure what it is.
BETA PHOTO: This is that same face but this photo is just to t...
Unknown boulder problem at Nubble.  Anyone know what it is?
BETA PHOTO: Unknown boulder problem at Nubble. Anyone know wh...
Comments on Nubble Lighthouse Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 1, 2010

You may want to contact Peter Beal about this area. I'm pretty sure he did a lot of stuff in the area.

By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Feb 2, 2010

I was introduced to this area by Mike Veazy who has been really involved in the area. We have discussed many of the routes that are on here. Mike has almost every single boulder problem at the nubble posted on rockclimbing.com.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Feb 3, 2010

As nice as it would have been to say I did all the problems BITD, I have never climbed at Nubble

By burlap submariner
Feb 20, 2010

I met a dude there who was in his sixties and he said they had a circuit there to train for routes on cannon in the 70's.

By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Mar 15, 2011

does anyone know of any bouldering in Bangor,I am going up there next month for a tattoo show,anyone that can help.i am gonna check out this spot though.

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Aug 21, 2011

Don't expect much in the way of climbing when you come here. Pretty disappointing. Though being on the ocean is nice...

By Grady Jackson
From: Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Nov 2, 2011

By caesar.salad
From: southern Maine
Jun 9, 2013

The rock here is SUPER SHARP. landings are sketchy as hell. I highly recommend a spotter. It's not the best bouldering in the world, but halfway decent if you don't want to drive far. Some of the routes are pretty interesting though. It is worth a look if you live in the area. I will definitely be going back.

ACCESS NOTE: I was just at the parking lot boulders. The hueco and wave boulders are farther up the coast past where some jackass has spray painted "PRIVATE" on the rocks. I would have gone up there to check them out but a wedding was going on and I didn't want to be a dick by getting in the background of all their photos.

By Christopher Gagne
From: Dover
Jun 28, 2013

"ACCESS NOTE: I was just at the parking lot boulders. The hueco and wave boulders are farther up the coast past where some jackass has spray painted "PRIVATE" on the rocks. I would have gone up there to check them out but a wedding was going on and I didn't want to be a dick by getting in the background of all their photos."

caesar.salad, The owner of the cottages that run along the North Shore Area owns up to the high water mark. If you travel between the high tide mark and the water you should be okay, they probably will yell at you but as far as I know they don't have any legal right to. Most of the boulders are in the surf zone anyways.