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Pentapitch Area
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Nubbins to Nowhere T 
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Tormented Lesbian, The T 

Nubbins to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Carruthers, Dana Houser: 1983
Page Views: 1,395
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Aug 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb starts at the top of pitch 1 of pentapitch(or other variation you choose). Traverse right towards sasquatch on the big blocky ledges and halfway between the big tree of pentapitch and the big tree of sasquatch is a finger crack that takes you straight up. Hit a bolt, then traverse right over to the dihedral that is just left of sasquatch. Follow this up to the huge tier atop pentapitch 2.

Gear: Standard LCC rack with 70m rope or 2 60m ropes. Rap down sasquatch.



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By mikewhite
Oct 11, 2007

Sweet route.
Everyone should do it.
Bolts replaced years ago by the asca.

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 6, 2011

Very cool climb. Finger crack to slab to lieback corner. Also, the easiest 10d I've ever climbed.

By Pete Spri
Sep 8, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route, suprised that it doesn't see more traffic.

Crack up to 1 bold, step right on a delicate move (crux) to a decent lip, then reach high or make an intermediate move to get some pro in. Easy from there on out.

Easier 10 for sure.

By johnny utah
From: Salt Lake City
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route on the nose of the lower wall. Stellar climb in a stellar spot! Wandering out to the final bolt of Nubbins Direct after the layback section can set up some better visuals of the follower from a belay up top, will reduce some drag too.