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Tormented Lesbian, The 

Nubbins to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Carruthers, Dana Houser: 1983
Page Views: 1,267
Submitted By: Orphaned on Aug 31, 2007
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on Pentapitch or Neuromancer.



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By mikewhite
Oct 11, 2007

Sweet route.
Everyone should do it.
Bolts replaced years ago by the asca.

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 6, 2011

Very cool climb. Finger crack to slab to lieback corner. Also, the easiest 10d I've ever climbed.

By Pete Spri
Sep 8, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Fun route, suprised that it doesn't see more traffic.

Crack up to 1 bold, step right on a delicate move (crux) to a decent lip, then reach high or make an intermediate move to get some pro in. Easy from there on out.

Easier 10 for sure.

By johnny utah
From: Salt Lake City
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great route on the nose of the lower wall. Stellar climb in a stellar spot! Wandering out to the final bolt of Nubbins Direct after the layback section can set up some better visuals of the follower from a belay up top, will reduce some drag too.